Charing Cross, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Delicious pasta at relatively affordable prices” inspires major loyalty to these “busy” pasta pitstops in Soho, near Trafalgar Square and in Borough Yards: for their legions of fans, “a staple option for a quick meal in London”, even if “the narrow WC2 branch in particular is tight for space and can feel a little crowded and noisy”. The experience, though, can tip into just feeling “rushed”, “unimpressive” or “hyped”, not least due to the “hit ’n’ miss service”. Top Menu Tips – “obviously the ‘silk handkerchiefs’ are best”; “Cacio Pepe is like you’ll never find outside Rome at an unbelievable price”.

“Traditional Italian food served in one of the older restaurants in London” generally works out better than might be expected at this Theatreland stalwart in the tourist hell around Covent Garden. The Ragona family from Sicily launched the business in 1952, and their “cosy” premises in an ancient courtyard has a fair few fans (including The Observer’s Jay Rayner, whose September 2024 review harked back to his first childhood visit in 1972). It makes an “excellent pre-theatre choice”, albeit that it’s “very expensive even allowing for the location”.

The “really lively atmosphere and helpful, cheerful staff” make this Italian spot from the San Carlo group “a nice pre-theatre dining venue” a few minutes’ walk from the Coliseum. One could argue that “there’s nothing exceptional about the cicchetti on offer”, but the place “doesn’t feel like a chain” and is consistently well-rated in (practically) all reports.

“Mad but fun, and actually with pretty decent food” sums up the general view of this vast and operatic mock-Italian in Covent Garden from the Paris-based Big Mama group, which majors mostly in pizza and pasta. It’s “definitely aimed at Instagrammers” and “groups of youngsters having fun” – but while it’s “seriously over-hyped”, at least that means nobody goes without knowing what they’re in for.

“Absolutely brilliant” – Jacob Kenedy’s “go-to place in Soho” (in a backstreet near Piccadilly Circus) remains one of the most interesting Italian restaurants in the UK. “No stereotypical Cucina Italiana here”: “the stellar menu is constantly changing” and the finest and freshest ingredients are treated with the utmost simplicity and respect in “regional small plates” that are “seasonal, well-judged and always memorable”; and which can be paired with “a very fine Italian cellar covering every price point”. “Thoughtful and friendly staff” help “everything function like clockwork”; and while “the room is a little challenging” (“it can be NOISY”) it “has a very good atmosphere”. Top Menu Tips – “mince-stuffed olives Ascolani, Amberjack carpaccio with rosemary oil and orange zest, Sweetbreads with morels and Marsala, Sicilian cannoli with a light and tangy ricotta filling”. “Heaven for olive oil and garlic lovers. Courgette flower with mozzarella and anchovies, Wild garlic pappardelle with duck are all to die for. Every dish packs a punch, down to the sweet Pig’s Blood and Chocolate Paté”.

“Good to see it’s open again!” – this “charming and efficient” Italian has built a loyal following over the years, with “caring” service and “a real family feel” that’s a welcome find in stuffy St James’s. The new site is doors away from the old in quirky Crown Passage: “a welcoming space with clean lines and tables not overly close together”. To the uninitiated, the traditional fare – Insalata Caprese; Calamari alla Brace; Ravioli del Buongustaio; Scaloppine al Limone – can seem a little “average”, which undercuts its rating. Most reporters, though, applaud its “well-priced”, traditional cuisine and consider it “a real surprise jewel in this neck of the woods”.

This “lively family Italian restaurant in Soho” has a “lovely vibe”, “very authentic food” and a “brilliant vermouth bar” (‘vermuteria’) serving their own, home-distilled creations. It’s a modern place, founded by three brothers from northern Italy. Top Tip – “head down to the basement for the best atmosphere”.

“Classic, uncomplicated Italian dishes are done accurately and well-flavoured” at Angela Hartnett’s trio of “deservedly popular” modern trattorias. “Consistently enjoyable, with a buzzy atmosphere and lovely staff”, they are widely tipped as a “good standby” for many occasions, and the worst anyone had to say about them this year is that they can seem “unimaginative but competent”. Top Tip – “the pasta is the thing here – especially the spicy rigatoni – but the menu is broad enough for kids and their parents (with a decent wine list); and staff are patient with families”; and “good-value set lunch”.

“A real sense of being a little part of history in London” – with a side order of “proper cannoli and great coffee” – is the prime attraction of this “excellent” 24/7 coffee bar, an all-but-unique survivor of post-War Soho, founded in 1949 by the Polledri family who remain committed to its legacy.

“Delicious pasta at relatively affordable prices” inspires major loyalty to these “busy” pasta pitstops in Soho, near Trafalgar Square and in Borough Yards: for their legions of fans, “a staple option for a quick meal in London”, even if “the narrow WC2 branch in particular is tight for space and can feel a little crowded and noisy”. The experience, though, can tip into just feeling “rushed”, “unimpressive” or “hyped”, not least due to the “hit ’n’ miss service”. Top Menu Tips – “obviously the ‘silk handkerchiefs’ are best”; “Cacio Pepe is like you’ll never find outside Rome at an unbelievable price”.

“We love the pistachio decor and the spacious seating”, say fans of this expanding chain, which had operated as a treasured old deli in Soho for over 75 years before starting to branch out as a pasta-chain in 2018. Impressions of it are something of a mixed bag though. To fans, its stylised outlets are “very convenient” and “can be trusted for a good-value and enjoyable experience with excellent food” (mostly pasta) in “sensible portions”. On the downside, though, are a fair number of diners to whom it’s a good concept whose execution is “perfectly fine but unexciting” (“starters good, pasta average-to-good, but compared with folk who had raved to me about other branches, I was left with a sense of ‘meh?’”). Still, their backers are enthusiastic and this year they added new locations in Greek Street and South Kensington.

Opening mid-2025 in this grand hotel off Trafalgar Square, a flagship restaurant from the top-class Italian chef, most recently of Sartoria and Fiume. He's taking over what was the Northall, with Tom Kerridge's Grill just along the corridor.

“Really good pasta in the unexpected location of tourist-central Piccadilly” – and at “pretty good value for this quality” – has won numerous fans for this post-lockdown venture, which now has a second branch in equally touristy Covent Garden. Given the well PR’d involvement of Phil Howard, the kitchen genius behind The Square (long RIP) and Elystan Street, it’s perhaps short on magic, but nearly all reports rate it as a good “cheap ’n’ cheerful” all-rounder.

“Really good pasta in the unexpected location of tourist-central Piccadilly” – and at “pretty good value for this quality” – has won numerous fans for this post-lockdown venture, which now has a second branch in equally touristy Covent Garden. Given the well PR’d involvement of Phil Howard, the kitchen genius behind The Square (long RIP) and Elystan Street, it’s perhaps short on magic, but nearly all reports rate it as a good “cheap ’n’ cheerful” all-rounder.

Review: “We love the pistachio decor and the spacious seating”, say fans of this expanding chain, which had operated as a treasured old deli in Soho for over 75 years before starting to branch out as a pasta-chain in 2018. Impressions of it are something of a mixed bag though. To fans, its stylised outlets are “very convenient” and “can be trusted for a good-value and enjoyable experience with excellent food” (mostly pasta) in “sensible portions”. On the downside, though, are a fair number of diners to whom it’s a good concept whose execution is “perfectly fine but unexciting” (“starters good, pasta average-to-good, but compared with folk who had raved to me about other branches, I was left with a sense of ‘meh?’”). Still, their backers are enthusiastic and this year they added new locations in Greek Street and South Kensington.