Bloomsbury, Chinese Restaurant Guide

“Excellent Xi’an hand-pulled noodles” (“pasta-like noodles with chillies to make your eyes water”) “at reasonable prices” ensure that chef-proprietor Wei Guirong’s central London canteen, “tucked away in a narrow pedestrian street near Russell Square”, is always “buzzing”. It is a sibling to Xi’an Impression near Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium.

“Fantastic, modern Chinese food” has long driven this famous Asian phenomenon. Launched in 2001, it has gone from a big, “overly dark” and nightclubby basement (“horribly loud music”) near Tottenham Court Road to spawn a very glam Mayfair offshoot; as well as 12 international spin-offs from NYC to Mumbai. “Eye-watering prices” and a mixed record when it comes to service, have always inspired jibes of “style over substance” here. But perhaps due to post-Covid challenges, such problems are in the foreground this year. Given that there have been blips before, they will probably get a grip. But it’s hard at present to ignore the many former fans saying “these ageing stalwarts need a refresh” (“I used to love it, but I think the bill now is silly and unjustified and the service is half-hearted and surly”).

2021 Review: “Great food at a good price” continues to win acclaim for the Deptford branch of this Sichuanese duo, whose chilli-hot and numbing cuisine makes it one of SE8’s brighter culinary sparks. No feedback in the last survey on its less noteworthy Goodge Street branch.

2019 Review: Vietnam meets Japan at this “buzzy” outfit in an “attractive townhouse off Charlotte Street” in Fitzrovia. Chef Ian Pengelly’s “delicious and mostly authentic food” combines with “attentive service” for “a wonderful experience that’s hard not to enjoy”.

2022 Review: “A basic restaurant with many fiery dishes” – this student-friendly canteen in Bloomsbury is known for its good prices and lip-tingling Sichuan noodle dishes.

This scene-y Chinese operation from a Manchester-based chain is the signature restaurant of Oxford Street’s ‘The Now Building’ (newly opened near Centre Point, featuring giant digital video screens). It’s an Instagrammer’s dream, but reports are mixed on the culinary front: the “food looks sensational”, but is “overpriced” by a number of accounts and – although it may well find its market – foodies are likely to see it as an “example of how money and pretentions can go a long way”.