The Times
Giles Coren was stagily coy about naming a new Chinese restaurant in London that has a set menu at £388 a head and is named after “one of the great Chinese environmental and human catastrophes of the 20th century” – which clearly identified it as the 3 Gorges in Goodge Street.
Giles – who chose the cheaper duck and abalone set menu at £139 – and was less than impressed by a meal of “dull spring rolls and dim sum of the ‘Mum’s gone to Iceland’ party pack variety”, followed by a portion of duck that was “horribly overcooked to a sort of sponginess and the cavity stuffed with all sorts of wrongness”.
He also reviewed a lunch at Vetch in Liverpool, which boasts “droolworthy” multi-course tasting menus in the evening but just three tiny courses for lunch. “It was all very nice indeed but, even in London, £45 would be a lot for what was very close to no food at all.”
Giles Coren - 2025-03-23
