Berwick, British, Traditional - Restaurant Guide

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!

“There’s lots more room in the new restaurant, but it’s lost the pub feel” according to first reports on siblings Josh & Holly Eggleton’s relaunched operation: reopening after a five-year refurbishment and now billing itself as a ‘produce-led restaurant, event venue, cookery school, and kitchen garden’. Beautiful views over the eponymous valley accompany a trip to the new, 60-cover, orangery-style space. Lunch is à la carte early in the week – later and in the evenings there’s a fixed menu (which at night is £60 per person). Top Menu Tip – “Marmite carrots side dish a revelation”.