Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 4th May 2025 London Standard Chuck’s, Brixton  David Ellis reckons “success is around the corner” for a “rotisserie restaurant that almost everyone can afford” operating out of a small and plain room in Brixton Market. Chicken, pork belly and […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 27th April 2025 London Standard One Club Row, Shoreditch David Ellis was completely seduced by the new upstairs restaurant above the recently reopened Knave of Clubs pub, hailing it as “E1’s answer to The Dover, Mayfair’s wood-panelled, come-hither martini […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 13th April 2025 London Standard Ikeda, Mayfair David Ellis claimed to be the first newspaper critic to review this veteran Berkeley Square Japanese (est. 1973), despite its being favoured by entertainment royalty (thank-you notes are on display from George Clooney, […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 6th April 2025 London Standard 27 Old Compton Street, Soho David Ellis welcomed the opening of Nima Safaei’s third restaurant in Soho – a “spiritual successor” to the inexpensive old-school Italian restaurants that made the district famous. David’s party of […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 30th March 2025 London Standard Tasca at Câv, Bethnal Green David Ellis hailed the “beautiful food and fair prices” at a new arrival in a “cool” neighbourhood, which landed in the very week that chancellor Rachel Reeves’s “thuggish budget […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23rd March 2025 London Standard Senza Fondo!, Shoreditch David Ellis was primed to castigate this cod-Italian for its childish promise of “bottomless lasagna” (misspelt, he snootily corrected: it should be the plural form, lasagne), for the exclamation mark in […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9th March 2025 London Standard La Polombe, Kensington David Ellis was won over by a two-year-old restaurant from James Chiavarini, owner of the long-running Il Portico nearby, which he has relaunched after bringing in a new head chef and […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 8th December 2024 London Standard Mondo Sando, Camberwell David Ellis trekked to an “incandescently brilliant” new sandwich shop from Jack Macrae and Viggo Blegvad, who were already “cultishly famous in South London” for their pub residencies in Camberwell and […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant reviewers were writing about in the week up to 6th October 2024 The Observer In a footnote to Jay Rayner’s damning review last week of restaurant 18 at Rusacks hotel in St Andrew’s, 18’s executive chef Billy Boyter this week announced his departure after just eight months – with […]

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