AA Gill’s Table Talk column in the Sunday Times is back after a summer hiatus and we discover he’s been in Italy all this time – lucky him. Perhaps the holiday has brought out his softer side as he gifts the reborn Locanda Locatelli at the Hyatt Regency hotel a rare five out of five […]
If the hipster-driven dude food revolution was prompted by the 2008 recession then, according to Giles Coren at The Times, the arrival of Sackville’s in Mayfair (an opulently expensive ode to beef and truffles) is a sure sign the hard times are well and truly over… “There would be exposed brick, bespoke cocktails and an […]
The Evening Standard’s Grace Dent seeks out Shoreditch’s latest smokehouse venture, Rök, concerned that it may be a another tedious, cavernous, edgy-by-numbers barbecue joint, which – she says – it absolutely is not. “Rök is small — 40 seats — and elegantly formed, dispatching gorgeous, highly devourable sharing plates of exquisite British produce with a Nordic […]
No egg puns were used in the writing of AA Gill’s review of Egg Break in the Sunday Times, but no punches were pulled either. He hated the place, from the bottom of its ‘Fritzl memorial lounge’ basement to the top of its ‘counter-cultural, recycled, reclaimed, ironic’ name sign. And is this the least appetising […]
The Observer’s critic-in-chief Jay Rayner heads to Levanter Fine Foods in Ramsbottom in search of thick-cut Galician beef steaks. Unfortunately they hadn’t arrived yet, but that didn’t stop him enjoying everything else that Joe Botham’s Spanish restaurant had to offer. “We run up a bill of £60 without any booze, but with the lobster, which […]
Jay Rayner weighs in on the north/south restaurant divide question The Observer’s critic-in-chief heads to Manchester to try out the new Hawksmoor and stumbles across a veggie dining room, 1847, serving great food – well, apart from the desserts. Read our roundup of restaurant news in Manchester and enter our Hawksmoor Manchester competition. Meanwhile the […]
The Indy’s Tracey Mcleod heads to Marlow to review Tom Kerridge’s new venture, Coach It doesn’t take bookings and “like the new-look Tom Kerridge himself, is much smaller than you’re expecting” but the food doesn’t disappoint and would be worth waiting for. Telegraph critic Zoe Williams says Great Portland Street’s Portland is ‘a breath of […]
Rapper-turned-chef Rabah Ourrad’s food at Wormwood gives pause to The Observer’s critic-in-chief Jay Rayner His one caveat? “Some will find the Wormwood experience profoundly irritating. There is a breathiness to the service, an intensity in the way ingredients are pointed out before you’re allowed to eat them, which can be wearisome. And costs mount.” Zoe […]
Can a pie be life-affirming? Marina O’Laughlin certainly makes Portland’s sound so The Guardian reviewer loves this recently opened Fitzrovia venture from the Quality Chop House’s Will Lander. “…it takes reservations and doesn’t charge like a rhino.” Meanwhile The Observer’s Jay Rayner is on another one of his jaunts, this time in Lyon The critic-in-chief […]
