Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 9 February 2020. Casa do Frango, London EC2 “Tortured food v excellent ingredients unmucked-about — I know what wins every time” Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times was craving chicken and chips after enduring a TV show in which Heston Blumenthal made a […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 2 February 2020. Mei Mei, London SE1 Jimi Famuwera for The Evening Standard is the first to report on Elizabeth Haigh’s new Borough Market Kitchen outlet; the “tiny counter café” that’s “a meticulous, loving riff on the thrumming ‘kopitiam’ coffee shops that are […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 26 January 2020. Muse, London SW1 It wasn’t just us then. “Tom Aikens’s new bijou “experience-led” fine dining restaurant was greeted with snorts of derision as possibly the most pretentious ever.” But the last laugh is on us, as David Sexton […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 19 January 2020. Paradise, London W1 Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times booked for a return visit to Paradise immediately after her first, and even “felt so evangelical about the place” that she posted on Instagram about the mutton […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 5 January 2020 – our first round-up of the decade. Allegra, London E20 Grace Dent for The Guardian had a hard time convincing friends to join her for a meal at Allegra. It’s just “so far away” and “Londoners […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 29 December 2019 – our last round-up of the year. Some more critics looked back over their past visits – perhaps we should call this week’s page “Review of the review of the reviews”? This week’s ‘best of the […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 22 December 2019. This week’s Christmas article / ‘best of the year’ round-up came from The Evening Standard’s Fay Maschler, whose ‘favourite restaurants’ article featured many of her friends from her decades of reviewing (and “do not necessarily adhere […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 1 December 2019. The Leaping Hare, Suffolk Jay Rayner for The Observer discovered “one of the good ones” in Suffolk this week – even though he’s “late to this party, by about a quarter of a century” as it’s […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 24 November 2019. The Kinneuchar Inn, Fife Marina O’Loughlin had four “evangelical” tips for the place she reviewed in The Sunday Times today – “it’s unusual to be sent four recommendations in a row for anywhere, let alone a […]

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