Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week to 14th September 2025 The Times Legado, Shoreditch Giles Coren was the first of the critics into print on the merits of Spanish chef Nieves Barragan’s eagerly anticipated follow-up to her phenomenally successful Sabor. His verdict: “Legado is set fair to […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 24th August 2025 The Guardian Bellota, Bury St Edmunds Grace Dent hailed a 20-seat counter venue “tucked away in a quaint West Suffolk market town” and serving a set menu from two “relatively unknown chefs”, married couple Ruben Aquilar Bel and […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week to 17th August 2025 London Standard Paulie’s, Shoreditch David Ellis popped in to one of the plethora of New York-style pizzerias that have sprung up around London in recent times – this one from Ryan O’Flynn (“Canadian, shush”), who also owns nearby Detroit […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week to 3rd August 2025 London Standard Lil’ Nashville, Chiswick  David Ellis whooped, hollered and kicked up his heels at a ‘country bar and kitchen’ in west London that is “better considered a kind of theme park ride”, offering line-dancing accompanied by Southern-style […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 20th July 2025 London Standard Canal, Westbourne Park David Ellis was pretty impressed by the latest opening from Dominic Hamdy, the “savvy operator” behind three Crispins and Bistro Freddie, which serves what “might be called London Mediterranean” – plus an “incongruous burger” […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 12th July 2025 London Standard Singburi, Shoreditch David Ellis visited the new, modernised incarnation of a Thai canteen that won cult status as a “national treasure” for ultra-cheap and tasty cooking at its former Leytonstone address. David, who never visited […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 8th July 2025 London Standard Acme Fire Cult, Dalston David Ellis has revised his opinion of a live-fire grill restaurant he dismissed on his first visit three years, declaring after a couple of recent meals that its B-movie “cult” […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 29th June 2025 London Standard Belly, Kentish Town David Ellis ate at a new Filipino bistro from Omar Shah, a multi-site operator who he said is to Kentish Town what Chris D’Sylva is to Notting Hill, Samyukta Nair to Mayfair […]

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