Stem, London W1 Stem had Jay Rayner from the amuse-bouche. He was looking for reassurance, having never eaten at the chef’s previous restaurants, and not quite knowing what to expect, but “a tiny, exceedingly crisp tart filled with a deep chive emulsion, all onion kick and adoration” did the trick. The menu of “good clean […]

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London’s appetite for fresh pasta specialists remains undimmed (Pastaio, Padella, Pastifico all spring to mind). Joining their ranks is this Covent Garden-fringe venture from William Ellner (of Joanna’s in Crystal Palace) and David Ramsey with ex-Locanda Locatelli chef Louis Korovilas in the kitchen whipping up the likes of pappardelle with kid goat and rosemary ragù. […]

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