Where would you take England’s greatest living ex-Prime Minister for lunch the day after her 80th birthday party? Admittedly, this is not a question one faces all that often, but the answer presented itself when – half way through our meal – Lady Thatcher made her entrance into this grand and very English dining room […]

Continue reading

Dine? ‘Lunch’ might be a more appropriate name for this new restaurant on the edge of the City. (‘Eat’, of course, is already taken.) Presumably the person – committee? – who chose the name did so because they thought it seemed very ‘elemental’, very ‘designed’, and very ‘now’. Dine is none of the above. It […]

Continue reading

This new restaurant is so-called because it’s right by the Bank of England, right? Well, possibly, but it also owes its name to its older South Bank sibling, near to the Bankside power station (now better known as Tate Modern). If they keep up the theme then finding a site for the third in the […]

Continue reading

Plain and simple steak ‘n’ chips – arguably France’s top contribution to world gastronomy – is done very well indeed at this Marylebone newcomer. Don’t go expecting anything else, though- so far as main courses go, that’s all there is. There aren’t any starters, either, unless you include a small lettuce and walnut salad (compris). […]

Continue reading

Is there a rich and varied restaurant-scene around Canary Wharf which visitors never get to see? Do the denizens of the Isle of Dogs keep all the best places to themselves? We want to know. But where to start? Our own guide now lists a few places, but we still live in fear of just […]

Continue reading

Adam Byatt is clearly not a man to give in easily. Having seen the failure of Thyme – the previous restaurant in which he was involved on this Covent garden site – he has now re-launched the dining room with new partners and a new name. The new look of the long and thin dining […]

Continue reading

Artistry in cooking can be overdone. Sometimes the occasion demands good meat, good wine, good cheese, that’s it. This seemed like an appropriate formula for lunch with an old school chum, now head of PR for a large fund managers. Knowing him not to be much of a style victim, I felt relatively relaxed about […]

Continue reading

Curry is great. Noodles too. And sushi can be splendid’ if you’re in the mood. Such dishes retain their ethnic status, but are so commonplace they are hardly exotic nowadays. But, you don’t have to be a fully paid-up member of the BNP to feel that sometimes you want the sort of comforting mongrel fare […]

Continue reading