Dockmaster’s House E14
REVIEWS, February 19, 2009
Overall Value
out of 5
  • Food
  • Service
  • Ambience
Dockmaster’s House, 1 Hertsmere Rd, London, E14 8JJ

A very good all-rounder, this money-no-object conversion of a grand Georgian house, near Canary Wharf, offers Indian cuisine of high quality, and efficient service, in an elegantly contemporary setting.

There have been a couple of attempts at turning this very grand Georgian house into an Indian restaurant. Neither lasted very long, but – undaunted – new proprietors have spent a great deal of money to turn this into quite a palace (if not one, to any obvious extent, of an Indian variety).

The new régime has even tacked an impressive new glazed annex, overlooking a garden, on to what’s already quite a considerable building. The result is an interior which is as attractive as any in the purlieus of Canary Wharf (but one which, contrariwise, is going to have to build up quite a following if it’s not always to feel a little empty).

Food and service on our early-days visit were both very good. The cuisine is perhaps a step down in inventiveness from the West End haute-Indians, but it’s none the worse for that – we enjoyed our meal from beginning to end, and everything was attractively presented, without tipping into prissiness.

For business entertaining – or, by night, quite possible even for romance – we think we might just be seeing the emergence of new star in the East. And, at lunch, the prix fixe menu offers value that’s well worth seeking out.

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