REVIEWS, March 18, 2014
Overall Value
out of 5
  • Food
  • Service
  • Ambience
Edwins, 202-206 Borough High St, London, SE1 1JX

A pretty (but quite noisy) pub dining room, right by Borough tube, offering an enjoyable menu that’s not especially ambitious, but interesting enough to be thoroughly enjoyable.

The dining room of the Trinity public house, next door to Borough tube station, has recently been relaunched with its own name and its own identity. Be aware, though, that its signage is discreet almost to the point of invisibility – all part, presumably, of a supposedly speakeasy-style charm.

When you do summon up the courage to venture up the anonymous stairs, and along the anonymous corridor, you come across a surprisingly attractive dining room, which looked at its very best on the sunny lunchtime we visited – window tables are definitely to be preferred. Despite the successful prettification, however, this is a room which still shows its pub heritage, and all those hard surfaces can make it noisy.

The menu is mainly composed of straightforward food with a modest twist, but we started off with the simplest of dishes that’s all about sourcing, freshness and presentation – the oysters passed those tests with flying colours. Two of us then eschewed the meatier main course options, preferring to share half a dozen small plates between us. And a very convivial lunch it was, even with just a modest glass of wine apiece. Nothing was trying too hard, everything was enjoyable, and some dishes – such as scallops in filo pastry with harrissa mayo – were really very good. Surprise highlight, though, was a notably light pear and almond tart.

We visited in the first week (an offer period), and service was still rather ebbing and flowing. Everyone was trying hard, though, and we’d be surprised if they don’t ultimately settle in to a more even rhythm.

We did wonder if prices might have seemed just a fraction high, as we spent just over £40 for two’ with all the food half price. All the more reason, then, to seek out the set lunch menu now available, which offers two of those small plates, plus a side, for just a tenner.

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