A collaboration between ex-Mayfields chef Matthew Young and sommelier Jack Lewens, formerly of Spring and River Café – due to open on 20 November in Hackney’s Netil House – is sure to have east London foodsters (foodie-hipsters) excited. And foodies in general if we’re honest.
Young’s food has been praised by everyone from the broadsheet big guns like Nick Lander at the FT and The Observer’s Jay Rayner to respected freelance critics such as Andy Lynes. Now that Mayfields has closed the chef has moved onto his own project – Ellory – a modern bistro sandwiched between the gentrified Broadway Market and trendy Netil Market (birthplace of Bao), by Hackney’s London Fields.
The concise menu encourages diners to drop in for a glass and a plate (£4-£20), but there is also a set-menu, with the option of matched wine (£38 for 5-courses plus £30 for matching wines) for those wanting a full dining experience. Dishes include: Scallops, citrus and anise; Puntarelle, anchovies and spenwood; Turbot, chestnuts and pumpkin; Chicken, chicory and carrot; and Caramelised citrus with ginger ice cream.
Lewens’s constantly changing wine list, made up of 50 bins, is dominated by the Old World, especially Italy, France and Spain and growers Champagne. The wines are matched to the food on a daily basis.
Ellory was due to open in September this year, but has been delayed until 20 November. Bookings can now be made via their website www.ellorylondon.com. It adds to the burgeoning dining scene around London Fields park which already boasts Rawduck, Climpson’s Arch, Lardo, Il Cudega and the Cat & Mutton pub – now boasting a residency by Mother Clucker fried chicken specialists.