A bistro-style boozer, right by King’s Cross, worth knowing about if you’re looking for a stop-off from your journey; for others, the formula lacks enough in the way of distinctiveness to be worth seeking out.

Things are certainly looking up around King’s Cross, which now boasts half a dozen at least satisfactory places to eat within easy proximity. One of the handiest is this newish (October 2008) corner ‘gastropub’ (which is one of those revamped pubs that’s been laid out in a way that feels much more like a bistro than a boozer).

We had nothing to complain about on our meal here, but the experience was never entirely engaging. Our meal, solo, was straight-down-the-line bistro fare – terrine, fishcake, chips, chocolate pudding – which was all totally edible, but which all lacked any distinction of conception or realisation. Service was prompt and efficient, but similarly lacking in anything to make it stand out. Ambience was in keeping; we’re told, however, that it’s rather more impressive by night.

Don’t get us wrong. This place is fine, and – especially by virtue of its proximity to the terminus – arguably a stand-by that travellers ought to know about. We still feel, though, that those in search of a ‘destination’ could probably do better elsewhere.

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