Perfect for Carnaby Street shoppers and oyster-lovers, the first offshoot of the mega-popular Borough fish and seafood bar.

The only real problem with the Wright Brothers oyster bar at Borough Market has always been that it’s too cramped and busy. We suspect that its new offshoot, near Carnaby Street, will soon be very busy too, but the setting in an airy townhouse-conversion is certainly much less cramped.

The culinary proposition is simple, and all the better for it. Oysters – which Londoners only now seem to be rediscovering – are of course the bedrock (the Wrights being oystermen), but there’s also a range of other seafood, and some very well-realised simple fish dishes of the day too.

The only extraordinary thing? That for so long the West End existed without many easily accessible places, such as this, which one can pop in to for a delicious light meal. Kingly Court – an enclave between Carnaby and Regent Street – is, however, just one of the more striking ‘nodes’, whose emergence dramatises the improvements that are now blossoming across the whole of the West End.

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