China is taking over. Well, if futurologists are to believed. But you’d be hard pushed to guess judged by the standards of your average Chinese restaurant. The clichéd chow churned out by so many native representatives of the People’s Republic gives little hint of the rich variety of one of the world’s greatest cuisines.
The arrival of Bar Shu in Soho last year with its focus on the fiery cuisine of Sichuan underlined the fact that there’s more to Chinese food than the hackneyed list of Cantonese dishes that have become a cliché. It’s a trend that now has at least one other example, with this endearing new arrival, a short step from Euston station.
The Chinese theming of the slightly homespun room is not of the lurid, carved dragon school. A large, slightly awkward space is cosied up with diaphanous oriental drapes, cheerful photographs, bright red chairs with large oriental characters, and a shelf full of bottles of Chinese hooch. Cheerful service from young staff is another happy break from the Chinatown stereotype.
The large menu is a blast, full of amazing names and cautionary chilli symbols. Dishes we sadly missed included “Fire-exploded kidney flowers”, “Strange-flavour rabbit” and “Hot-and-numbing boiled fish”. Of those we tried, the “Sliced pig belly and tongue in hot oil” and “King prawns in special chilli sauce” were first-rate, if a bit heavy on the chilli oil. The prawns were so good that everything went, including the heads and tails.
Given the different and confrontational nature of some dishes and large portion sizes, it’s an experience that might work best in a group. But a fun time could be expected by all ‘ so long as you like it hot.
