Sparsholt Restaurant Guide

This “great hotel” makes a “lovely setting” for “consistently very good meals” from well-travelled chef Phil Yeomans, who trained at the Dorchester and worked in the US and Bermuda before returning to his native Hampshire to run the kitchen here six years ago.

Victorian village pub, remodelled and extended in 2018 with new bedrooms and a dining room which provides a standard pub menu. The menu aims at the higher end for pub grub (for example with ‘Hampshire 36 Day Aged Côte de Boeuf’ or ‘King Scallop, Salt Pig Nduja & Saffron Risotto’) but more sceptical reporters see it as “good all-round but somewhat dialled in”.

2021 Review: “The garden’s a joy in summer” at the original HdV, founded 25 years ago in a gorgeous Georgian house – but there’s a persistent feeling that it fails to live up to its attractive setting or extensive cellar, with diners too often “disappointed” by their bistro fare. The chain, which now numbers 19 boutique hotels, has been sold twice in the last 10 years.

“Lovely food, beautifully presented” makes it worth knowing about this local Thai favourite of two decades’ standing, whose large vegan selection makes it one of the better places in town for those wishing to eat meat-free.

Another outpost of the all-conquering Ivy brand’s high street brasserie spin-off, whose “décor and furnishings stand out from the crowd” (down to the onyx bar, polished parquet floors and burnt-orange leather banquettes). It’s “lost a bit of gloss since it opened” and food was never really the main event (though there’s a “wide choice” on the menu, and it’s generally well-rated) “but it‘s the location and the buzz that you go for”.

“An interesting pub with loads of character” – this well-known sprawling inn (run by Fuller’s) sits right between the Cathedral and the town’s famous public school, and its decor includes bric-a-brac and ancient desks from the latter. “A varied clientele, with some eccentrics – human and canine – are thrown in for added pleasure in a series of cosy and pleasantly cluttered rooms so that except at the busiest times, it‘s convivial rather than noisy; no music or TV; and staff who are amiable and helpful”. Now under a former Roux Scholarship semi-finalist, Luke Emmess, the food “has regained some (not all) of its former glory” and “is certainly a lot better than a mere ‘cut off the joint’”. Straightforward items gain most praise (“dinner doesn‘t always deliver on its ambitions”): “one of the best pies ever…”; “breakfasts and lunchtime sandwiches are superb”.

This “long-established Indian with a large and loyal following” has served an “interesting range of refined dishes with good use of spices” for almost 40 years. “As long as Ronnie [Chowdhury] is there, this will always be the best Indian restaurant in Winchester – he maintains the high standards in food and service”.

“Excellent food and service” again win high ratings for Miff Kayum’s relocated Japanese fixture, which recently moved after 11 years at 70 Parchment Street to this new 60-cover address (with 20-seat courtyard) within the town, on the former site of Bridge Street House. The headline feature on the menu remains the ‘Winchester Roll’ – the world’s first to be wrapped in wasabi leaf not seaweed – as does the freshly grated wasabi served with sushi: “chef grows his own and invited us to see the growing plants and take a leaf home!”

“Our go-to local favourite” – “history is definitely on the menu here and one can feel it within the cosy sophistication of this 600-year-old dining room” – “a wonderful, intimate and historic” space that’s “great for grown-ups”. It’s been a restaurant since 1940 and owned by Mark Dodds since 2008, whose team provides “wonderful friendly and efficient service”. The “classic” cooking is not of the highest ambition but consistently well-realised and very reliable. Top Tips – “good value lunch and early evening menu which is wonderful for dinner before a play at the Chesil Theatre”; “lamb and game are favourite choices here”.

2023 Review: “A busy, excellent Indian restaurant worth trying for both eat in and takeaway”. It’s a plain and simple operation in Winnall on the fringes of the town, where the inclusion of Nepalese dishes adds interest to the menu.

“Fish ’n’ chips at their best” – this three-year-old under the Guildhall serves “fantastically good battered fish”, “crispy, tasty and served piping hot”, from chef-owner Lenny Carr-Roberts, who has a background in fine-dining at Le Gavroche and Claridges. Top Menu Tip – “leave room for their homemade gelato”.