South Kensington, French Restaurant Guide

“Just like being in Paris” – this “classic French brasserie” in a Chelsea backstreet is “a perennial favourite”, run by “a strong core team who have been here for ages”, with patron “Didier Garnier keeping a close eye on things”. It’s “always full with many locals”, and is also a “great place to dine with business colleagues – good food and service guarantee you can concentrate on the business at hand”. A key feature is “possibly the best-value wine list in London, especially if you are a fan of Rhone and/or Claret” (and with “a good selection of half bottles”).

“No wonder it’s packed every day, when the food is this good” – chef Claude Bosi’s Chelsea newcomer is off to a flying start and one of the most talked-about debuts in our annual diners’ poll, as well as amongst the fooderati in-crowd. It’s his and his wife Lucy’s tribute to the ‘bouchons’ of his native Lyons (named in memory of his grandmother) and the “rustic hearty fare from Bosi’s homeland” is “exceptionally well-executed”. With swathes of cream, eggs, pastry, butter or cheese in most dishes, the “wonderful Lyonnais food” is “not for the calorie-conscious but there is a reason why these recipes are such a part of our food heritage”, and succeeds in making it “very much the bistro it‘s trying to be”. In set-up, “it’s like being transported to France, with jammed-in tables” (“you will be part of the next table’s conversation whether you like it or not!”) and retro decor. Top Menu Tips – “special mention has to go to the utterly superb sweetbread in morel sauce and do leave space for the Rum Baba to finish, lethally laced with enough booze to float a battleship”.