Kensington, International Restaurant Guide

In one of London’s prettiest squares, this “lively” pub classic has the dubious honour of being Piers Morgan’s local – he claims to have met the then-actress Meghan Markle here on the day she later met Prince Harry. (TV crime buffs will also remember it from the late-70s series The Professionals). The scoff’s mostly unreformed pub grub, but good value.

2021 Review: Forty wines by the glass, and 150 by the bottle are the main ‘gourmet’ attraction at this modern wine bar, near Notting Hill Gate (which, over the years, has added siblings in Fulham and Brackenbury Village). To accompany the liquid refreshment, there’s substantial fare like steaks and seared fish, or you can stick to the “great bar platters”.