Holt Restaurant Guide

A Georgian country house hotel packed with British post-war art and “within easy reach of London” for the mini-break set; Skye Gyngell of Petersham Nurseries Café fame oversees the two restaurants, with Marle being the fancier, orangery-style dining room with a Michelin Green Star reflecting the hotel’s focus on sustainability. As in previous years, not everyone is convinced by the pared-back dishes, with those who “enjoyed the occasion” counterbalanced by those who found it “somewhat lacking – expected more”. But even cynics concede it’s still “above average”.

The ‘live-fire’ option at this Hampshire spa hotel offers “excellent if expensive food from the marvellous Skye Gyngell”, making best use of “lovely locally grown ingredients” and of an informal setting in the old stable block – for some guests it’s their “favourite of the Heckfield Place restaurants”, in preference to the more formal dining room-based Marle.

This “truly exceptional” establishment near the Hampshire/Berkshire border strikes “a nice balance between a traditional pub and a gastropub, combining the best of both”. Jason King & Simon Page are notching up their 21st year here in 2025, and “the consistency of the quality over the last two decades has been great”, with “delicious food” on a blackboard menu that’s “always interesting” and “impeccable service”.

Feedback has strengthened over the years regarding the much-accoladed, wood-panelled dining room in the oldest section of this plush Victorian pile in Surrey – nowadays a 124-room luxury hotel and spa – where chef Steve Smith has looked after the stoves since early 2020. It doesn’t attract huge volumes of reports, but its dedicated local fan-club regards it highly all-round. Dinner is a three-hour, seven-course affair at £175 per person, with four- and five-course options available at lunchtimes and on some evenings. The wine options here received particular praise this year.

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

“It would be damning with faint praise to say that this is one of Reading’s better restaurants, but it certainly is” – a “striking” and “carefully converted Lido” with spa, where you dine poolside and enjoy the “romantic” and “soothing” spectacle of “watching others swim whilst you eat”. “The dishes nod towards the Mediterranean and feature a wealth of flavours and textures”, as well as feeling “healthy and wholesome” (except, that is, the “naughty but nice” desserts). Some regulars here this year, though, said the food was “good, but not as good as on our last visit”.

“Beautiful, quintessential country pub” (the description has barely changed since Jerome K Jerome described it as “the veritable picture of an old country inn” in his 1889 classic ‘Three Men in a Boat’) with a “cosy, relaxed interior” and “reliably good food”. These days the pretty village has a reputation as an A-lister hotspot (George & Amal Clooney, Jimmy Page, Theresa May), but you’re still welcome in the Bull’s bar in a pair of shorts with a dog in tow for some “reliable” traditional fare.

“Smart pub/restaurant with a buzzy atmosphere” and “consistently good food from a large and varied menu” – built at the 19th-century height of the local brick industry, it’s a “great place to stop for lunch after a good walk in the countryside”, with “lovely log fires in the bar”.

2023 Review: “A wonderful country experience” is reported at this rural inn (‘The Hodd’), run by the Barnes family since 2015, whose concise menu aims for superior realisation of classic pub dishes.

“A revelation and, given the mass of chains in Reading, a wonderful surprise” – Nandana and Sharat Syamala’s “full-on” subcontinental blends “decidedly different” dishes from Andhra and Hyderabad, the two South Indian regions from which they hail; its many fans claim it turns out the “best Indian food, period” (“rich, fragrant and mind-blowing”, “original” and “ultimately good value”, too). There’s also a roaring takeaway service (partly owing to the muted atmosphere), and even those who think it “a bit over the top to order Indian food from Reading (where the restaurant moved in 2024) rather than buy from the local Indian” report it’s “definitely worth it” if you do.

2022 Review: The former Land’s End pub got a new lease of life (and name) in 2018 when it was taken over by Niki & Adam Fortes, and the best man at their wedding, Colin Savory (both Colin and Adam having a pedigree at top restaurants). The “great” countryside setting is enhanced by “superbly cooked” pub staples and finer fare and “you can tell there are real chefs in the kitchen”.