Emsworth, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “local gem on the quay” at Emsworth is “such an amazing restaurant”, with a reputation that stretches back over three decades – chef Gary Pearce joined the kitchen at 17 then worked abroad at Noma, Old Sluis and other grand venues before returning with his wife Martyna, eventually taking over from Ramon Farthing six years ago. There’s plenty of fish and seafood on the menu, as expected from the location, but also an unusual selection of Australian wagyu and Japanese Kobe beef.

Little changed over its 25 years in operation, Lawrence & Julia Murphy’s small, sweet bistro is a short walk up the main street from the waterfront in Emsworth, and occupies a 17th-century fisherman’s cottage. The motto under the logo is ‘Friendly Food, Tasty People’ and its accommodating service has always been a key feature, alongside well-priced, traditional-ish cuisine. For whatever reason, it failed to inspire the typical volume of feedback this year, but we’ve maintained its ratings from 2025 on the basis of its very consistent performance over more than two decades.

2022 Review: Sailor-turned-entrepreneur Ed Collison set up his popular venue at Emsworth yacht basin at the age of 21 in 2016, serving everything from £4.50 bacon breakfast rolls to a splash-out seafood platter for two at £120 a pop. During lockdown he launched a fleet of silver catering vans, and in November 2021 announced a new branch of the Deck, replacing the Boat House Café, at Gosport marina.

“This old-fashioned hotel features two restaurants sharing a kitchen – the more upmarket Sea School and Marwick ’s Brasserie”. Set in three 17th-century cottages and a converted barn, the property has been owned by the Wild family for 50 years, with chef Neil Hiskey running the kitchen for half of that time. A classic afternoon tea is also offered in Markwick’s, so it’s very much “a place to take aged relatives”.

2023 Review: With its “delightful setting looking out across the South Downs” – a view from the window said to have inspired William Blake’s anthem Jerusalem in 1803 – this eighteenth-century coaching inn is quite a draw, especially in summer when you can dine in the garden. The cooking is generally “creditable” (although both highs and lows were reported this year). The business has been owned since 2007 by Giles Thompson, formerly executive head chef at The Ritz. Jerusalem.

2024 Review: This 200-year-old local pub at the foot of the South Downs is “well run and popular”, with a “well-executed and great-value menu” of superior gastropub fare.

2022 Review: Current owners The Epicurean Collection – behind a string of boutique pubs and inns – have a hit on their hands with this award-winning venture: a “worthy addition to an area generously supplied with high-quality country pubs”. The rolling South Downs beyond the windows inform much of the “imaginative menu”, with a particular accent on introducing non-shooting folk to game (the latter courtesy of the local Goodwood Estate).

The building has a history dating back to the 1780s, and its current occupant has developed into a real local staple since launching in its current guise in 2003: an airy bistro with a conservatory and terrace. Adam Maker has headed up the kitchen for the past few years and, while he no longer seems to be doing small plates mentioned in last year’s edition, has settled on fixtures like fish ‘n’ chips, pizzas and a popular Sunday roast: cooking that’s “always reliable”. Oenophiles NB: Camber Wines sits above the restaurant, so top tipples are guaranteed.

2022 Review: “The food is excellent, and you’re made to feel welcome” at this showcase for the produce of the Goodwood Estate, an early convert to organic farming (although Lord March, the Duke of Richmond, is better known as a petrol-head). “They’ve turned the courtyard into a lovely space”, and the highlight of the menu is the ‘butcher’s board’ sharing selection of various meat cuts.

As it heads into third decade, Viv Casson’s “slightly dated but cosy” restaurant (rustic, with exposed brick and many a beam) has long been known in these parts for its “lovely food and service”, which extends to regular themed dinners, including eight- or nine-course tasting menu nights.

2022 Review: “Have a lovely walk to work up an appetite” before visiting this laidback brick-walled boozer on the River Meon, handy for the South Downs Way, and with a “very nice little garden down by the brook”. To make sure of enjoying its “great” pubby staples “you need to book – even midweek – as it’s very popular”.

“Given the reputation of the chain of Pig Restaurants/Hotels, we were looking forward to a very enjoyable evening; and it was enjoyable… but not because of the food”. Too many reports this year had significant reservations about this branch of the famous shabby chic hotel chain, where “the conservatory restaurant is very pleasant on a sunny day with long views across wooded Sussex downland”. “Rammed and noisy, with a car park full of expensive motors, this beautiful spot in the South Downs (reached by a narrow lane)” can “ultimately seem more style than substance” for a number who comment. “The food is pleasant, nice, but nothing special… better than adequate but not worthy of their reputation”. “The menu focuses on sourcing ingredients from within 25 miles, including some zero-miles vegetables grown on site – but the cooking doesn’t justify the prices. It’s at the level you might expect in a pub that serves decent enough food but with no pretensions to being noted for its cooking”. “In other words, a restaurant in lovely surroundings living on their reputation not their quality”. “Service is satisfactory but a touch amateur at times” and at others “disengaged”.

2024 Review: Four miles from Chichester, and bordering the South Downs National Park, this 200-year-old pub-with-rooms is part proper boozer (upfront) and part tastefully arty restaurant offering ambitious gastrofare. Reporters this year praised the “warm ambience” and a “treat” of a menu that features some “standout courses” such as scallops and venison.

A former courthouse with exposed beams plays host to this rustic and tiny European restaurant run by chef Nathan Marshall and FOH wife Evi, a “lovely lady” whose Hungarian roots sometimes inspire the fine-dining on the menu. On limited feedback this year, there were reports of some “delicious” dishes and as we went to press, demand for a table was so high that they were already fully booked for 2024! Top Tip – to circumvent the need to book way ahead, keep an eye on their Instagram account (@n.marshall_chef), where they sometimes advertise last-minute cancellations.