Ellesmere Port Restaurant Guide

“Been several times and it is just the perfect neighbourhood bistro…” – no-one would seek the roots of a famous chain in Hoole (a gentrified but easily-missed inner suburb near Chester’s train station), but Gary Usher’s well-known Elite Bistros group has grown from these modest beginnings: a small backstreet operation founded in 2011. What is it that makes this “local brasserie style restaurant” a cut above? It’s the “consistently good food, wine and engaging and knowledgeable service”. “The ambience might depend on the clientele for that evening, as it’s fairly small – upstairs was very quiet on our visit, but that made it easy to have a conversation with our friends without competing noise”.

The “great Spanish food” at Joe & Ben Wright’s Chester-based tapas operation has proved a winner over the past dozen years, replacing their popular bistro Joseph Benjamin and spawning offshoots in Altrincham and Salford, while in late 2024 they took over the former Greens site in West Didsbury. The no-reservations policy means “you risk waiting for ages – but at least they have a bar upstairs to wait in now!”.

Another characterful pub in the Brunning & Price chain (a red-brick former warehouse with plenty of reclaimed décor including a bar made of old mahogany doors) in an appealing canal-side location between the train station and city centre. It’s a “noisy” and sociable sort of spot and the food is of “good dependable quality”.

“After a promising return, the food has dropped off quite dramatically”, according to a number of reports at this long-running culinary icon: a plush, if windowless chamber at the heart of a grand hotel, owned by the Duke of Westminster and next to the city’s emblematic Eastgate Clock. For many years under Simon Radley (here from 1998-2021), it was one of the then-few destinations in the North West to hold a Michelin star. More than one reporter this year opined that “having lost its star on Simon’s departure, it needs to improve considerably to justify the high prices”. One bright spark though – in the adjoining lounges there’s a “reliable afternoon tea: recommend the Gentleman’s version, which includes excellent fish sliders”.

“In the five-star hotel in the centre of town, right by the city walls”, this attractive brasserie sits right on the pavement of Chester’s pedestrianised main drag and a visit injects a good amount of glam mid-shopping spree. On the downside, service can sometimes be “lacking” and it’s not a price-competitive option…

“Recently moved [in August 2023] from a backstreet passage in Chester to a prestigious new location on Pepper Street and with considerably increased covers and ambience”: this “very smart” dining room is winning ever-greater esteem for its accomplished modern British cooking (it provided one Shropshire-based reporter with their best meal of the year) all served by “knowledgeable staff, which they have retained from the old venue”. There’s an à la carte menu of some ambition and for the full blow-out a tasting menu option with eight courses for £80 per person. Top Tip – at lunch there’s a cheaper set, with two courses for £30 per head. See also ‘Twenty Eight’.

“Local restaurant which has been there for years and always produces high-quality fare with excellent service”, from the “consistently awesome Locke brothers”, Matt & Adam. “There’s a wide choice of dishes – nothing too ostentatious, just good cooking”, “well-executed and reasonably priced” in a “modern European” idiom. It’s popular, so “booking is necessary”.

“Fabulous food with unusual flavour combinations, lovely staff and great service” make this neighbourhood bistro from Chris Edwards & Owain Williams “well worth the trip to the student quarter of Liverpool”. “Seasonality is the key here” – but “don’t come here for a romantic dinner-for-two: it’s buzzing!”. Top Tip – “the amazing early-bird dinner menu”.

“A spacious, beautiful building” in the Georgian Quarter next to ‘The Phil’ (built in 1888 as a ‘Home for Destitute Children’) hosts Paul Askew’s culinary bastion – still, after ten years in operation, the most high-profile all-rounder in the city in our annual diners’ poll. At heart this is high-quality “traditional” – if contemporized – dining: the ‘Excellence’ menu is a three-course à la carte, although there is also a six-course ‘Tasting’ option at £125 per person: “fabulous food, tremendous service, and a lovely atmosphere”.

“A well-thought-out range of well priced, sometimes interestingly different dishes” has made this lively venue a worthy follow-up to Paddy Byrne’s ‘Everyman Bistro’ (from which he moved here in 2015) and is likewise “ideal for pre-concert or theatre dinner”. As of Autumn 2024, it’s ‘temporarily closed’ with the website suggesting a relaunch after a refurb – given this uncertainty regarding its future direction, we’ve left it un-rated for the time being.

This “fun spot in the Albert Dock” – younger sibling of Peter & Elaine Kinsella’s Lunya – offers “a real taste of Spain and good value for money”. “Special mention for the excellent service” (“genuine attention paid to food allergies, above and beyond the routine questions”).