Egham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Some outstanding food and clever twists in the tasting menu” inspired high ratings and enthusiasm levels this year in the “really special” and “intimate” dining room (just seven tables) of this stately pile, complete with Tudor fireplace and tapestries, where chef Alex Payne’s menus accounted for some reporters’ best meals of the year. Some reports include quibbles, but even a diner who was at the only occupied table at the time said “what a pleasant meal and what charming staff. Not expensive by today’s standards and definitely worth the detour”.

Ex-Core chef Steven Ellis & pastry-chef wife Ami’s “temple-of-gastronomy-wolf in a comfy-pub-sheep’s clothing” launched two years back and it has a particular focus on local game. The “highly distinctive and skilfully crafted cuisine” (with “venison to the fore”) plus “attentive and courteous service” place it “at the top gastropub level”. NB – while “parking is potentially tricky, one could enjoy a delightful walk in Windsor Great Park before or after a meal here”.

Adam Handling’s charming and well-known converted pub in Old Windsor was launched in 2021 and offers a wide and flexible array of eating options – from pub classics, to a selection of steaks, to a tasting menu for £65 per person. Fancier options, like the “totally brilliant private dining room”, inspire some reporters’ best meals of the year and everyone likes the venue’s “very busy hum”. Not all reports are quite so enthusiastic, but even a disappointed reporter rated the food well.

“Impeccable!” – “Adam Smith has definitely added the wow factor to what was formerly the Restaurant Coworth Park” and with the Dorchester Collection’s 2023 revamp of this mansion’s main dining room – replacing its formerly bland international luxe looks with very successful, “subtle but stylish” surroundings – it is fully emerging as one of the south east’s foremost gastronomic destinations (“surely it must be heading for two Michelin stars”). “Several snacks lead into the hospitality masterclass which Adam and his team, including front of house, achieve at each visit”. “Bread is not just a side issue but a course in itself and something to be savoured” and is followed up by “exciting dishes realised with flair” and “a fantastic lightness of touch”; all “superbly presented” by the “smiling, thoughtful, nattily dressed staff”. And “the cheese room is an experience in itself”. “The best meal we have had in a long time”: “pricing has gone up quite significantly” but no-one complains about this – they say it’s “still worth it as the food is phenomenal”. “Gorgeous grounds to wander around too”.

This independently owned and run pub just off the Thames Path serves “first-class, chef-quality cooking at chain-pub prices, with a great menu for all occasions” – “you don’t find many pub-restaurants full on a Tuesday lunchtime, but this one is for good reason”. “They even make gravies from scratch for each Sunday roast and their own desserts!”

2021 Review: FKA ‘The Manor at Foxhills’: this “beautiful” dining room of a top golf course – set in an impressive Victorian manor house – “has been refurbished, with no carpets or window furnishings so it’s noisier than it used to be”. Too little feedback as yet from which to rate this new, more modern guise, but prices are not punishing and there is a menu for ‘Young Adults’. A traditional afternoon tea in the adjoining plush lounge is still an option.

This “stylish restaurant” near the bridge to Windsor has been run for almost 50 years by co-founder Lin Gilbey, who is responsible for its interior design. Her husband and business partner Bill (scion of the Gilbey’s Gin dynasty) sadly passed away in 2022, but Lin has pressed ahead with improvements, acquiring the premises next door to offer corporate entertainment and private dining facilities. Modern British cooking is generally felt to be “solid”.

“Very friendly service with good-quality food on a menu that’s refreshed regularly” is the recipe for success at this smart boozer that is now the flagship of Brucan Pubs, a five-strong group from chef Jamie Dobbin (ex-Savoy, Ivy and Groucho CLub) and James Lyon-Shaw, ex- operations manager at the ETM group. One unusual feature is the horsebox converted into a mini dining room in the garden – a tribute to the regal town’s equestrian tastes, perhaps.

2021 Review: “Upmarket pub” with a dozen bedrooms, handy for Ascot Racecourse, which was taken over by new owners (Barons Pub Company) in late 2018. Not all reporters are happy with the new ownership, but upbeat feedback praises its “well-rounded menu, relaxed style and pleasant service”. Reflecting the up-and-down reports, we’ve left a rating till the next Diners Poll.

“More an experience than a meal out: an amazing trip with faultless service and a restaurant and kitchen running like clockwork” – that’s a convert’s take on Heston Blumenthal’s temple of bizarre molecular gastronomy, world famous for its outlandish culinary concoctions and wacky ideas (like listening to the sea on headphones as you eat seafood). Especially for a first-timer, it can seem “outstanding in all aspects”, and to be fair even many of its detractors do actually rate the kitchen’s creations here as outstanding. But that it delivers “gastronomic theatre rather than a meal out” leads to a view in some quarters that this is “a once-in-a-lifetime experience, rather than somewhere to return to” (and a reporter who did comment on a repeat visit found the second run lacked variety). Then there’s the perennial issue of the “outrageous” prices, which continue to be a major detractor for about one third of reporters and which foster a feeling among more sceptical diners that the whole schtick is a case of “emperor‘s new clothes” – (“at least paying in advance removes some of the shock of the astronomic cost”). Finally, the ambience of this converted pub is “difficult to score as the decor is minimalist and the room is dark”: it isn’t dire but it’s safe to say that it’s not a huge contributor to the event. None of the above is new, by the way – this is a similar review to the one featured in the guide for many of the last ten years… and the show marches on…

“Wow, Wow, Wow! Surpassed all expectations… loved every moment” – all reports this year are a hymn of praise to this sumptuous dining room, which has won numerous accolades over the years and where Steve Smith has been at the stoves for five years now. “Imaginative food is presented with real style” in a six-course ‘discovery’ menu for £175 per person that’s “consistently very good”. Top Menu Top – “desserts are particularly good: for example, the rhubarb and truffle chocolate is unusual, delicious and a great ending to a meal”.

2021 Review: A refurbishment/relaunch a few years ago added to the charms of this good all-round boozer, handy pre- or post catching the nags at Sandown Park, whose food was consistently well-rated last year.

This comfortably decorated national chain feels akin to dining in a hotel, but minus the bedrooms; and its two London branches – near the Tower and in Putney – benefit from attractive Thames-side locations, where “it’s lovely to sit outside on a warm day by the river, or year-round in one of their igloo pods”. “There’s a warm fire inside with cosy armchairs”, too, which make the venues “fine for coffee or snacks”, although for more substantial meals “the food is only OK”.

This red-brick steak restaurant and bar is part of the carnivorous, three-strong Rare Breed Dining group, with its own in-house smokery and butcher overseeing prime cuts of meat (part of a trendy package that also includes on-site wreath- and candle-making classes); results from the menu (relayed via daily specials boards) are “tasty” and there’s a “lovely outdoor area for al-fresco dining in summer”.

The second link in the growing Brucan Pubs group, set up by James Lyon Shaw and Jamie Dobbin, who met during their days at the famous Ivy. By all accounts the three-year-old venture is “surprisingly good for a somewhat unprepossessing area”, and with “good-value set menus” to boot. Top Menu Tip – “in my experience the best dishes are the slow-cooked ones”.