Dunston Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: A collaboration between Sheffield cook Richard Smith, his restaurateur wife Victoria and the award-winning craft brewers Thornbridge; “creative fish dishes” feature alongside meats – all well-singed on the fancy Bertha indoor charcoal oven – and the “great location” (skirting the Peak District) makes it particularly “good for outdoor eating”.

This swish country house hotel, in one of the Peak District’s most picturesque villages, is transforming before visitors’ eyes as part of an ongoing, £1.1 million makeover. As we went to press, the more casual ‘Garden Room’ had already been reborn, with chef Adam Harper (ex-of the acclaimed nearby Fischer’s) overseeing a new menu with impeccable local sourcing such as Chatsworth beef; this, the more formal fine diner, will follow suit, but meanwhile won praise this year – well “on its way to a Michelin star” by some accounts. All reports acclaim the “brilliant food and ambience in all areas” and it’s also tipped for afternoon tea.

The future of this well-known Edwardian manor house seemed in doubt when it went onto the market in mid-2023, but instead longtime guardians Max & Susan Fischer (latterly handing the reins to son Neil) have leased two of their pubs – the Prince of Wales in Baslow, and Bulls Head at Foolow – to Nick & Jemma Beagrie of the Bakewell bakery, and refocused their interest on Fischer’s, so far kept afloat thanks to lucrative new deals with the likes of luxury giants LVMH, who will oversee a new summer champagne bar (part of their wider expansion plans). Given such exciting events, there was the odd blip this year, but the general tenor of reports was still upbeat (“never had a bad meal here”; “best meal of the year”).

2022 Review: This “lovely gastropub” on the Duke of Devonshire’s Chatsworth estate gets mostly positive feedback for its “good food and real ales”. There’s sometimes a perception, though, that “it falls short” of its potential: “the cooking was fair, but it could be so nice here”.

2021 Review: Maurizio Mori’s long-established Italian (est. 1996) has earned its local popularity with “good food that’s consistently authentic” and “staff and an atmosphere that help improve your day”.

2022 Review: “The best freshly ground and tasty coffee in the whole of South Yorkshire, can’t beat it” – insist fans of this Kiwi-style spot in the Cultural Industries Quarter – now in its 12th year, so a veteran in the fast-moving world of artisan coffee. It has an all-day menu of brunch-ish eats, and serves cocktails as early as 11am. The industrial-style interior is replicated at its second site, at Sellers Wheel.

This “long-established and well-loved Sheffield classic, in a perhaps surprisingly suburban location” (of Nether Green) serves “imaginative three- and four-course menus and tasting menus” – with “great food” and “superb service”, it “always feels like a special experience”. A “small venue (26 seats) with over-table lights, creating a more intimate space in the evening”, it is approached up “steep stairs, which may be an issue for some”. Co-owner chef Tom Lawson left after 10 years in summer 2024, so it is now wholly owned by co-founder sommelier Alistair Myers, with Dan Conlon as head chef. Top Tip – the midweek tasting menu is £65 per person (much cheaper than at the weekend when there’s only a £110 per person option, or the ‘Kitchen Bench’ at £135 per person).

2023 Review: Richard & Abi Golland’s street-food operation wins high ratings for its tacos and other lively Latino dishes, available at its city-centre Burrito Bar or the fully licensed Mexican Canteen in Sharrow Vale Road.

A smart Georgian townhouse on a cobbled street near the city centre hosts “very good” cooking from Naples-born Ester accompanied by an “excellent Italian wine list” (possibly the best in South Yorkshire) assembled by her partner Saverio, at the well-established family venture they founded together (at a different address) almost 20 years ago.

This “old manor house” handy for Chatsworth (and “not to be confused with the Peacock Inn in nearby Bakewell”), may “feel old-fashioned”, but its “great food and interesting menu” (from tasting menus to more “relaxed” options, both taken in the “fine dining room”) make it “a pleasure” by all accounts. Local ingredients (beef and lamb, say) are sourced from the Haddon Estate on which it sits.

“Initially housed in a converted shipping container, but shortly (in 2024) to move to a leafier suburb” – Luke & Stacey Sherwood have won fame since they opened in 2016 in the city’s ‘Krinkyl’ development and in September 2024 their success has enabled them to up sticks to the Oughtibridge Paper Mill development on the edge of the Peak District, now complete with two bars, an all-day dining terrace, an outdoor kitchen, bedrooms, and a deli shop on site. Reports hitherto auger well for the move: “What can you say? this restaurant is better than most Michelin-starred restaurants you will visit”. “Exquisite combinations from locally foraged and international sources are wonderful to look at and eat” and the “always interesting and well-researched drinks pairings” are a form of “magical alchemy”. (Another visitor in March 2024 was The Times’s Giles Coren, who humble-bragged about now being the first reviewer to visit, but left Sheffield delirious with the thrill of such good food for so little money and very excited about coming back to try the new place). We’ve maintained the current ratings during the move. Three final thoughts: -1- Will the absence of the recherché shipping container and higher overheads of the new set-up dispel some of the mystique that’s so far distinguished the place? -2- One reporter notes that “the chef has been to Japan and some dishes can be a bit unbalanced with umami flavours dominating”… hopefully a passing phase. And -3- if you don’t want to travel to the new location then Konjö (see also) will be moving into the Krynkl shipping container they’ve left behind.

2022 Review: No feedback as yet on this brave September 2020 opening – a tiny, 8-seat chef's table restaurant (all seats are at the counter) with an ever-changing and affordable tasting menu (7 courses for £30 on opening) from chef Luke Reynolds. Reports please!

“This shouldn’t be in the cheap ’n’ cheerful section as it is too good to sit there… but it is cheap and cheerful… so why not!” – this spin-off from Joro creates Scandi/Japanese fusion fare over a robata grill: “not your usual street food and delicious”. Hitherto it’s been at indie food hall, The Cutlery Works, but when Joro moves to a new site “the high-end fare here will get even better when they move premises” to occupy the Krynkl location vacated by Joro.