Whitechapel, Middle Eastern Restaurant Guide

“I dream about the hummus and flatbread…!”; “Believe the hype: even the meat-eaters don’t complain” and visit “these vibrant (often heaving!)” venues whose “completely brilliant” meat-free dishes (“such variety, with great combinations of flavours”) provide “taste explosions” of “fill-yer-face food”. But even fans concede you get “squashed in” and that “the bare walls and decor make it noisy” – “then again a more comfortable ambience would just push up the reasonable prices” and the net outcome is “jolly”. From its Soho base, expansion has come to Shoreditch and – from April 2025 – also now to King’s Cross. Top Tip – avoid W1’s “cramped basement”.

“You will want to lick the plate” if you brunch (the highpoint) at one of Yotam Ottolenghi’s inspired deli-cafés, whose creation in 2002 helped created the TV fame of the owner, and started to popularise the Middle Eastern-influenced cuisine that’s swept London and even now is seen as fashionable. The formula is little changed: “tasty, healthy and yummy dishes” that are “beautifully flavoured” but “a bit on the pricey side”. “Ottolenghi is the master of flavoursome veg (with more veg choices than at most non-veg restaurants)” and, in particular “the cakes are wonderful!”. (Also, “they’re great on allergens.”). On the downside, “space is tight” and the “ambience could be more relaxed”. There’s also a feeling in some quarters that “Yotam has become a brand and it shows”, with food that is “good but after a while same-y”.

“The flavours are big, the combinations exciting and the breads fluffy” at these “cheerful and helpful” Eastern-Med cafés, created by (self-taught chef) Limor Chen and husband Amir, which have won a good degree of renown for their “sharing plate concept” of “creative Middle Eastern dishes” with a good level of “balance, imagination and good value”; and “although there are an increasing number of Middle Eastern restaurants in London, these are some of the very best”. Their original in Marylebone and rather "beautiful" new ‘Townhouse’ in Covent Garden are the most popular branches, although the one in Shoreditch is consistently well-rated too.