King's Cross, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

“Every morsel is delicious” at this well-pitched three-year-old, on the edge of the new King’s Cross dining quarter – the work of Israeli celeb chef Assaf Granit (founder of London’s Palomar and Barbary, plus equally hot venues in Israel and Paris). Fitted out by Tom Dixon (whose offices are adjacent), its “wonderful Middle Eastern flavours and lively Tel Aviv vibe” draw an appreciative crowd: “boy was it worth it – such interesting flavours and perfectly executed”.

This modern take on the wine bar “sets the benchmark for an imaginative, indeed educational, wine list” – with “constantly surprising selections from far-flung places alongside the old-world classics”. There are “good choices by the glass, though prices can start quickly to move upwards”, and the “food is generally surprisingly good, with good-value set-lunch options”. The ultra-handily situated King’s Cross branch draws some flak for being “just too popular”, while branches in the City, Faringdon, Marylebone and Chiswick all have their fans. A new branch is scheduled to open by Borough Market in late 2021.