Farringdon, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

“An exceptional list of wine with so many to choose by the glass that it’s always possible to try something a bit different” is the key selling point of this popular modern wine bar chain. Its culinary attractions are less reliable – the food can be “surprisingly good” but is too often “essentially average”; service can be “accommodating” or “rushed”; and the ambience can be “better if you can sit outside”. But its “excellent value” drinking and “lively” style carry the day. In particular, the “conveniently placed” King’s Cross branch has a “great location, which makes it a winner”. Top Tip – “creditable set lunch at a pretty restrained price”.

2023 Review: “A reliable spot for light Italian-style lunch or dinner” near Silicon Roundabout, with a strong drinks list courtesy of its co-founders: sommelier Michael Sager of Sager + Wilde and mixologist Marcis Dzelzainis. “The pizza dough is some of the best and the toppings are very different from your usual Italian”, the pasta is home-made, and the grills are “just as good”.

“Gastropub heaven!” – this basic boozer on the busy Farringdon Road is where the gastropub revolution started in 1991, and it’s “still fabulous after all these years” – “no fuss, no pretence, just wholehearted focus, as ever, on simple yet perfect flavour combinations. Unbeatable!”. Head chef Edward Mottershaw celebrates two decades as head chef this year, and still chalks up the daily changing menu of Mediterranean-influenced dishes a matter of minutes before service, ensuring “simplicity and perfection without scary prices”.

The “lovely Moorish/Spanish sharing food” at the little sister of Sam & Sam Clark’s Moro next door in Exmouth Market – and also its spin-off in Hackney Road – makes them “a go-to place when you don’t know where to go”: “an all-round crowd-pleaser, good for meat and non-meat- eaters alike”.