Dorney, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

A “fun” and smartly turned-out country pub offering “consistently good food and service” at a “price point you’d expect for Windsor: fairly high”. Launched in 2018 by industry insiders Jamie Dobbin (an ex-Savoy, Ivy and Groucho Club chef) and James Lyon-Shaw (ex-ETM group manager), it’s now the flagship of their five-strong Brucan Pubs group.

“It has to be done… and at the price it’s possibly a never-to-be-repeated experience… but what an experience – theatrical, magical AND delicious!” – Heston Blumenthal’s famously wacky temple of weird molecular gastronomy is entering its 30th year, and most reports say it’s “still an unforgettable and amazingly inventive experience”. Perhaps sensitive to the odd accusation that it can “feel a bit dated and a bit behind the likes of Core, The Ledbury and Row on 5” nowadays the rate of innovation has stepped up this year. A cheaper à la carte option has been reintroduced after an absence of many years (three courses for £255 per person); and there’s now ‘Mindful’ and ‘Journey’ menus (including iconic dishes of the last 30 years) for £275 and £350 per person respectively. Bad vibes about its cost-levels abated somewhat in this year’s annual diners’ poll – only 1 in 6 now consider it “overpriced”.

2024 Review: This “stylish restaurant” near the bridge to Windsor has been run for almost 50 years by co-founder Lin Gilbey, who is responsible for its interior design. Her husband and business partner Bill (scion of the Gilbey’s Gin dynasty) sadly passed away in 2022, but Lin has pressed ahead with improvements, acquiring the premises next door to offer corporate entertainment and private dining facilities. Modern British cooking is generally felt to be “solid”.

“Top notch pub grub” wins votes for Adam Handling’s converted pub in Old Windsor, which will celebrate its fifth anniversary in 2026. A selection of funky small plates (like Yellowfin tuna, green chilli, ponzu or BBQ mackerel, grape salsa) zhoosh up a menu that’s fairly classic gastropub in its approach (steaks, burgers, fish ’n’ chips). The prices bug one or two fans though (“been several times, and the bill is now a bit silly”).

“You feel like royalty” at this “amazing property” owned by the National Trust, which dates back to 1666, but was transformed into the Italianate mansion that you see today by Sir Charles Barry in the 1850s; Cliveden has welcomed a Who’s Who of 20th-century history, and was once owned by America’s richest man, William Waldorf Astor, as well as providing the backdrop to the notorious Profumo Affair. While the modern European cooking doesn’t always outshine that epic backstory, few places offer a more “amazing ‘Arvo’ tea”: “a truly wonderful retrospective experience of grand living in the 1920’s, with first class cakes and savouries and superlative views of the gardens”. One savory is ‘Winston Churchill Roast Beef & Yorkshire Pudding’, namechecking just one of the many famous former guests here.

A “beautiful location in the old stables at Cliveden”, where “you can sit indoors on a lovely cobbled terrace” in the summer, is the main attraction of the second-string restaurant at the Astor family’s glamorous Italianate mansion, where Christine Keeler came to salacious fame back in the Swinging 60s. It’s “expensive” and “relies on its setting”, of course, but “service is good” and there are no complaints about the food this year.

2023 Review: “Good food at a fair price” was reported again this year at this well-regarded pub: part of a local group with siblings in Gerrards Cross and Beaconsfield. In good weather you can eat on the terrace, or book an ‘Oak Pod’ which seats up to 6 people, and incorporate a heater.

“Amazing, innovative food”, “welcoming staff and a brilliant wine list” combine to good effect at this neighbourhood restaurant, which was opened by Wesley & Francesca Smalley as the Covid restrictions lifted and has prospered ever since – what’s more, it’s “fantastic value for money”. Top Menu Tip – “the lightest cheese soufflé ever”.