Strand, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“On more than one occasion we have observed someone ‘popping the question’ here!” – the “magical” setting “never fails to impress” at this Covent Garden oasis, yet again voted London’s No.1 venue for romance in our annual diners’ poll. “Sitting in the conservatory is a joy, especially in good weather when the retractable roof is open” and its “most beautiful interior courtyard is tailormade for a date”. “The largely Provençal and Tuscan cuisine is good but the star of this show is the magnificent wine list, with choices from around the world and prices to suit all budgets. The only recommendation is to read the wine list at home in advance, otherwise you’ll spend the first hour ignoring your date!”.

With its “good short menu” of “delicious” (if sometimes “very rich”) dishes; “very friendly service and great atmosphere”, this is a “cosy, charming little restaurant in Covent Garden”. It’s a sibling to Kitty Fisher’s in Shepherd Market, Mayfair – both named after historical local ladies of the night – and ideal for a “relaxed” occasion.

The eclipse of this former icon of Theatreland by the nationwide chain it spawned (and its adjoining club) is continuing, and the volume of feedback it inspired sank significantly this year. A fair amount of glam still remains, but the A-listers are long gone, and standards are “hit and miss nowadays” to the extent that it too often delivers an experience that’s “overpriced, formulaic and mediocre”.

With the “lovely decor” replicated from the Theatreland icon for which they are branded, Richard Caring’s “always buzzy” spin-offs have found a gigantic audience nationally. But “these places live off the name for sure” and “it’s the ambience that keeps them going” – while fans say the food is “reliable”, more sceptical types dismiss it as “conveyor-belt cooking”; and say service is merely so-so. Some branches are better than others: best in London is ‘Chelsea Garden’, which has the same “distinctly average” standards as the others, but reliably offers an “uplifting” atmosphere and “great people watching” (and “on a sunny afternoon there is literally NO WHERE ELSE TO BE but its large garden. HEAVEN!!”). Also worth mentioning is the outlet by The Thames in SE1: “excellent views of Tower Bridge”, “even better if outside in summer and convenient for The Bridge Theatre”.

“Like being in an old fashioned Parisian brasserie”, this big venue, “centrally located by Covent Garden Piazza”, provides a “hectic but impressive” backdrop to a meal. Many reporters feel “it has a whole lot going for it”, but even they often acknowledge either “seriously poor” cooking, or the trade-offs that a visit entails: “Yes it’s on the pricey side and the food is average really, but it’s still a tradition that we enjoy.”

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

2021 Review: Promising, if limited, early feedback on this modern ‘wine parlour’ – recently opened by wine expert Andrew Gray (a merchant with a business at the Southbank Food Market) on a corner-site near Covent Garden (the erstwhile office-space of a Mr Charles Dickens); and with an excellent list of 70 wines: “limited food, but what they do is lovely; tiny space, but it’s gorgeous, and well worth a visit, especially as staff are so lovely”.

This conveniently situated mezzanine venue in a luxury hotel near Covent Garden is a real treat thanks to its “lovely setting” and “high standard” of cooking. The kitchen is “particularly accommodating for those with dietary restrictions” – “the wheat and dairy-free afternoon tea is joyous, with wonderful flavours and ingenious combinations, plus a wide selection of unusual teas”.

“A go-to place for top USDA steaks” – this unusual space, hewn out of the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre, is worth a trip, with food that’s much better than you might expect. It’s great value too (perhaps as a loss leader to get you into the casino?), making it ideal as a pre-theatre option; and on Monday you can BYO wine. NB. Under 25s must have ID.

Dating from 1867, this fine Soho landmark should be famous, but has slipped off the restaurant map in recent years: initially due to its indifferent standards; and then due to Soho House’s purchase of the building, and its closure to non-members since 2019. In July 2023, the club once again threw open its doors to the hoi polloi, with a food operation now run by the team behind the Stoke Newington pub The Clarence Tavern. Fingers crossed, this promising partnership helps it recoup some of its old mojo, rather than descending once again into the Theatreland tourist trap mode that’s dogged it since PizzaExpress founder, the late Peter Boizot, sold it on in 2002.

Gordon Ramsay’s two-year-old tenure has yet to dazzle at this Thames-side dining room (which, two years ago – when Gordon took it over – returned to the name under which it was launched in 1890 and has traded under for much of the last century). From its days as Kaspar’s (RIP), it continues a fish and seafood theme – now with a fashionable raw bar – and there are also a few meat grills on the menu. But few dishes catch the eye from the somewhat “unremarkable” selection and it can be “difficult to find something you fancy”. And, when they arrive, too often results are “only moderately good” or plain “disappointing”.

Dazzling rooftop views accompany a trip to this landmark chamber overlooking the rooftops of Trafalgar Square towards Parliament. As part of the NPG’s refurb it has been re-designed by design studio Brady Williams and re-opened in early July 2023 with acclaimed chef, Richard Corrigan at the helm. The bar operation has been beefed up and offerings will include a light afternoon tea and chef’s dining counter (plus launch set lunch and pre-theatre menus from £29 per head).

Snug Soho bar, whose superior wine list belies its founding by two Master Sommeliers: Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset. To help soak up the vino: well-rated small plates, cheese and charcuterie. Top Tip – head here in the wee hours: it’s open till 3am later in the week.

A “reliable Soho favourite”, where results from its blackboard menu are “always solidly good and can be excellent” – the same can be said of its handwritten ‘little black book’ of wines. “Small, relaxed and friendly”, it “can become pretty noisy, but that’s part of the fun”.

“The lovely Soho institution above this legendary pub” (where de Gaulle is said to have composed some of his speeches during WWII) is currently “in the very safe hands of Neil Borthwick” (Angela Hartnett’s hubbie). There’s “wizardry afoot” here but “no faff or fancy” – by “doing simple but really excellent things to top produce but not doing much to it” he creates “a tight menu of absolute bangers”, with “big flavours singing out” (“a plate of greens can be as full of oomph as a tartare or a chop”). “Staff are tremendous” and for many reporters this is “a go-to destination in the West End”.

This “cool spot” with a “tight menu that changes daily” is “a Soho go-to, even if you get turned away at the door because it’s too damned successful!” Now in its second decade, it was way ahead of the curve with its modern Mediterranean/North African menu and biodynamic wine list (“tried orange and natural wines here before they became popular categories elsewhere”).

“Simplicity and style are in abundance” at Skye Gyngell’s dining room in Somerset House – not only “an absolutely beautiful space”, but whose “seamless service” and “wonderful food” make it “a delightful experience from start to finish”. Skye’s cuisine has a deft delicacy of touch, but the most popular option is the ‘Scratch’ menu – “lovely reimagined ‘leftovers’ from earlier services, provided from a no-choice menu between 17.30 and 18.30 at £25 for three courses” (“designed to reduce food waste, it’s a great idea and useful for a post-shopping pick-me-up before the train home or a pre-theatre supper”). Although this is the kind of venue that’s “gorgeous for lunch with a visiting mother”, it’s actually most nominated as either a gastronomic highlight or for client-entertaining: “the slightly zen nature of the food and purist environment makes it a brilliant choice for a certain type of business”; and “clients are always impressed with Spring”.

This Soho outpost from the Sussex-based Gladwin Brothers was launched in 2019 in the stylish quarters vacated by Arbutus (long RIP). As at the Gladwins’ five other venues across London, feedback was somewhat limited and a little up-and-down this year. A particular plus is the “valiant focus on locally sourced produce” and a “friendly” approach. Negatives include meals that can be “pleasant but unmemorable” and the odd incident of “haphazard” service.

“Replacement for the beloved Gay Hussar” – Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew’s 2021 resurrection of this famous Soho site has pulled off the amazingly difficult task of being almost as popular as their Bloomsbury original. “Everything about this establishment is wonderful, but the wine list elevates it to the exceptional” – “the care that goes into it is astonishing” (“I could happily spend the rest of my life working through it!”). The hearty food is “always enjoyable” too and “expertly served” by particularly “knowledgeable” and “friendly staff” in “the delightful atmosphere of this gorgeous old restaurant, which has been brought back to life by the Noble Rot team”. Top Top – “amazing value set lunch”.