Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23 July 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “This Balearic beauty is a grill on fire.” Jimi Famurewa is the first of our regular critics to review Mountain, “Tomos Parry’s spanking new, instantly thronged successor to the Michelin-starred […]

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Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 3 July 2023. ****** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa was in Notting Hill to review Empire Empire, the new Indian restaurant from Gunpowder founder Harneet Baweja, and found several “nettlesome issues”, not least the “small, awkwardly configured […]

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Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26 June 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “A few doors down from the East End’s beigel shops and Bangla curry houses — we have an all-new, affordable institution, built upon principles of soulfulness, succour and the timeless […]

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Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 11 June 2023. ***** The Guardian “Food doesn’t get much more personal than this.” Grace Dent was in Caversham, enjoying “thoughtfully made and determinedly different” authentic Hyderbadi food at the “second incarnation” of Clay’s Kitchen, now in […]

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Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 4 June 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “A brutally brilliant destination in its own right.” Jimi Famurewa visited the new National Theatre restaurant, Lasdun, and wondered what he’d done wrong when every other customer left at exactly […]

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Happy Bank Holiday Monday! Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28 May 2023. ***** The Observer “In an area not renowned for its ambitious restaurant choices, this is one which deserves to thrive.” Jay Rayner was in Northern Ireland, struck lyrical by the […]

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Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21 May 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “Decadence done right is a welcome addition to King’s Cross revival.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed the “unabashed grandness” of the Midland Grand Dining Room, the “an all-new flagship restaurant within the […]

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Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 30 April 2023. ***** The Guardian Despite being unsure about the term “smoke play” (referring only to the Josper grill in the kitchen, thankfully), Grace Dent has been wanting to visit Khai Khai, on Newcastle’s Quayside, for […]

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Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23 April 2023. ***** The Times Giles Coren sat at the “performative eating counter” at Rambutan, the “spanking new Borough Market locus” for “diaspora Sri Lankan cooking over open fire”, from chef and cookbook author Cynthia Shanmugalingam. […]

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Here’s a quick, bank-holiday round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9 April 2023 and over the Easter weekend. ***** The Observer “It’s all delightful.” Jay Rayner was in Salford and paid a visit to Sakura; be warned, there’s another restaurant with the same name in the […]

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