Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th January 2024 * The Evening Standard “Measured hits of palate-jolting unexpectedness.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Sune, an antidote to the “wine-led sharing-plates restaurant” formula and “chef-led pretentiousness” usually seen in Hackney. (It’s pronounced “sooner” and comes from […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21 January 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa reviewed Kebhouze, the new Oxford Street kebab joint from Italian businessman and “internet personality” Gianluca Vacchi which claims to be the UK’s biggest “despite the fact 220-cover Green […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 14th January 2024. ***** The Evening Standard David Ellis grumbled about the travel time to the new permanent Clapton location of chef Abby Lee’s Mambow, but even with a “bad beginning” (“queuing has not been planned for” and there was […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the first week of 2024. ***** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa opened his first review of 2024 with a bold headline: “Welcome to London’s best new restaurant”. He was reviewing Donia, a Filipino spot that’s taken over the top floor of […]

Continue reading


Happy New Year! Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the fortnight over Christmas 2023. ***** The Evening Standard In a departure from the usual ‘best meals’ lists from our favourite critics, The Standard has produced a list of the worst meals of the year, compiled from the […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 18th December 2023. ***** The Evening Standard A “knack for deftly articulated pleasure and willingness to try things”. Jimi Famurewa reviewed The Corner, a “louche long-term kitchen residency” from Jackson Boxer that’s “wedged in between luxury womenswear […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 3rd December 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “Food with a magnificence and flavour dynamism that completely speaks for itself.” In The Evening Standard, Jimi Famurewa reviewed Akara, chef “Aji Akokomi’s more casual sister to Akoko” in the […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26th November 2023. ***** Tributes have poured in from all quarters since it was announced on Thursday that Russell Norman, founder of ground-breaking restaurants from Polpo to Brutto, died aged 57 after a short illness. David Ellis […]

Continue reading


Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 19th November 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “As good as it gets.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed The Devonshire, the “white-hot, Soho megapub” that’s somehow created an atmosphere that’s “some unholy, simultaneous combination of St Patrick’s Day, New Year’s […]

Continue reading