Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th July 2024 Evening Standard Henri, Covent Garden David Ellis headed to what he calculated was Jackson Boxer’s sixth restaurant on the go, “a Paris-inspired bistro — wanting to be ooh la la, va va voom On-ree, not claret-at-the-golf-club […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21st July 2024 Evening Standard Lucia, Hackney Wick Jimi Famurewa brushed aside the social-media hype attending so many launches to draw attention to a new Mexican spot in east London whose Instagram account has yet to post a single […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 14th July 2024 Evening Standard Tollington’s, Finsbury Park Jimi Famurewa hailed the Spanish-accented makeover of a derelict chippy, by Four Legs chef Ed McIroy (Plimsoll and the Compton Arms), as “both a justified candidate for opening of the year and […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23rd June 2024 Evening Standard Café Britaly, Peckham When this restaurant’s purist-baiting pitch first came to his notice, Jim Famurewa dismissed the whole enterprise as clickbait – “winking Britalian camp” and “a silly play for virality”. But when he […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16th June 2024 Evening Standard Paulette, Maida Vale David Ellis had never given a five-star review before his visit to this neighbourhood bistro in the heart of Maida Vale, “on the grounds that nothing is perfect”. And neither was […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 19th May 2024 Evening Standard Roe, Canary Wharf Jimi Famurewa delivered the first verdict on the “unfathomably huge” Canary Wharf follow-up to St James’s Market hit Fallow, and it’s a certified thumbs-up: “Roe is both big and clever,” he […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 12th May 2024 The Times Oma, Borough Market Giles Coren wins the ‘review of the week’ award for his rave over the latestBorough Market hotspot, which he rates as “hands down, pants off, run around screaming, slam-dunk best-of-the-year-so-far joint in […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 5th May 2024 Daily Telegraph Francatelli, St James’s Restaurant critics like to give generous reviews but readers notoriously prefer stinkers. So this week they were in for a treat – led by William Sitwell, who was “bewildered” by the decision […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th April 2024 The Financial Times Alberta’s at The Windmill, Brighton Tim Hayward was “blown away” by Scottish chef Alistair Munro’s cooking at a “rackety, seedy Regency locals’ boozer” – a meal which prompted Tim to define an emergent new […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21st April 2024 The Evening Standard Crispin at Studio Voltaire, Clapham Jimi Famurewa was impressed by the latest expansion of the East London-based Crispin brand, which “cements founding restaurateur Dom Hamdy’s HAM group as one of the capital’s most […]

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