Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23rd June 2024 Evening Standard Café Britaly, Peckham When this restaurant’s purist-baiting pitch first came to his notice, Jim Famurewa dismissed the whole enterprise as clickbait – “winking Britain camp” and “a silly play for virality”. But when he […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16th June 2024 Evening Standard Paulette, Maida Vale David Ellis had never given a five-star review before his visit to this neighbourhood bistro in the heart of Maida Vale, “on the grounds that nothing is perfect”. And neither was […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9th June 2024 Evening Standard The Counter, Soho David Ellis expected great things from the second helping of Kemal Demirasal’s upscale Turkish cooking following his success of the first Counter in Notting Hill last year – “God it was […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 2nd June 2024 Evening Standard The Hero, Maida Vale “This might just be the best-looking pub in the world”, pronounced David Ellis in his review of the latest project from the team behind the Pelican in Notting Hill and the […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26th May 2024 The Guardian Brett, Glasgow Grace Dent found “comfort food with the chef’s foot fully on the gas” at this modest-seeming wine bar – the younger sibling of feted Cal Bruich nearby – which “holds a fig leaf […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 19th May 2024 Evening Standard Roe, Canary Wharf Jimi Famurewa delivered the first verdict on the “unfathomably huge” Canary Wharf follow-up to St James’s Market hit Fallow, and it’s a certified thumbs-up: “Roe is both big and clever,” he […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 12th May 2024 The Times Oma, Borough Market Giles Coren wins the ‘review of the week’ award for his rave over the latestBorough Market hotspot, which he rates as “hands down, pants off, run around screaming, slam-dunk best-of-the-year-so-far joint in […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 5th May 2024 Daily Telegraph Francatelli, St James’s Restaurant critics like to give generous reviews but readers notoriously prefer stinkers. So this week they were in for a treat – led by William Sitwell, who was “bewildered” by the decision […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th April 2024 The Financial Times Alberta’s at The Windmill, Brighton Tim Hayward was “blown away” by Scottish chef Alistair Munro’s cooking at a “rackety, seedy Regency locals’ boozer” – a meal which prompted Tim to define an emergent new […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21st April 2024 The Evening Standard Crispin at Studio Voltaire, Clapham Jimi Famurewa was impressed by the latest expansion of the East London-based Crispin brand, which “cements founding restaurateur Dom Hamdy’s HAM group as one of the capital’s most […]

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