Our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 11 February 2024. ***** The Evening Standard Grasso, Soho Perhaps retro-feel Italian dining never went away, but critics seem to concur that it is having a moment right now. Jimi Famurewa led the way into a “dining trend that is suddenly […]

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A new bistro inspired by the cuisine of rural France has opened in Borough Market from the team behind Soho’s Ducksoup – with an ex-St John chef at the stoves. Camille has taken over the former site of Sons + Daughters sandwich shop, with room for 32 guests inside and more outside on the terrace. This […]

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Chef Elliot Moss and his wife, Helen, have announced the immediate closure of their acclaimed St John’s Wood restaurant, PLU.   The contemporary fine-dining ‘micro-restaurant’, seating just eight guests, showcased Elliot’s creative cooking and presentation style with a 15-course seasonal tasting menu. Opened in 2029, for the past two years it has appeared in the top […]

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Wagyu mousse (pictured) is the signature dessert at an upmarket new Pan-Asian restaurant in Chinatown. YiQi has taken over the former site of Hong Kong Buffet in Lisle Street. The kitchen is headed by Malaysian-born former Hakkasan and Yauatcha chef Lum Wah Cheok, whose menu features a number of Malay seafood dishes along with rice […]

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A South African-inspired restaurant serving ambitious cuisine at accessible prices has opened in the south Birmingham suburb of Stirchley. Riverine Rabbit, set in a low-key shopping parade on Pershore Road, is named after an endangered species that lives in South Africa’s Karoo Desert – signifying chef Ash Valenzuela-Heeger’s commitment to supporting sustainable farming practices. Ash trained […]

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