Plain and simple steak ‘n’ chips – arguably France’s top contribution to world gastronomy – is done very well indeed at this Marylebone newcomer. Don’t go expecting anything else, though- so far as main courses go, that’s all there is. There aren’t any starters, either, unless you include a small lettuce and walnut salad (compris). […]

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Is there a rich and varied restaurant-scene around Canary Wharf which visitors never get to see? Do the denizens of the Isle of Dogs keep all the best places to themselves? We want to know. But where to start? Our own guide now lists a few places, but we still live in fear of just […]

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Adam Byatt is clearly not a man to give in easily. Having seen the failure of Thyme – the previous restaurant in which he was involved on this Covent garden site – he has now re-launched the dining room with new partners and a new name. The new look of the long and thin dining […]

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Artistry in cooking can be overdone. Sometimes the occasion demands good meat, good wine, good cheese, that’s it. This seemed like an appropriate formula for lunch with an old school chum, now head of PR for a large fund managers. Knowing him not to be much of a style victim, I felt relatively relaxed about […]

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Curry is great. Noodles too. And sushi can be splendid’ if you’re in the mood. Such dishes retain their ethnic status, but are so commonplace they are hardly exotic nowadays. But, you don’t have to be a fully paid-up member of the BNP to feel that sometimes you want the sort of comforting mongrel fare […]

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Have you brought us to a dump?’, asked one of my fellow diners asked as we approached this Hornsey newcomer. Its car park does admittedly have some not especially attractive railway-track views. But hey, at least you can park. And, as you approach the impressive Edwardian brick exterior, things start to look up. In fact, […]

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Pimlico – so near, yet so mysterious. I’m not so much talking about the bit near Sloane Square which many people think of as an extension of Chelsea – where La Poule au Pot on Pimlico Green is one of the capital’s longest-running success-stories – but the bit over the railway tracks, in real (Passport […]

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How do you PR a new restaurant? Having a really famous TV-chef as a backer isn’t a bad start: that Rick Stein is investing in one of his ex-employees at this Chiswick newcomer has drummed up a lot of interest from day one. Given Stein’s involvement, you might perhaps expect a seafood place, and one […]

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Where do you lunch your editor? Should you – say, like us – find yourself writing a restaurant column for a daily business newspaper, and have the pleasure and honour of taking your editor out for lunch, where do you go? That was the question. Not somewhere too flashy – obviously, expenses must be kept […]

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