Not often do you get four national newspapers reviewing the same new restaurant on the same weekend. All raves too. Must be something special going on. Bungs? No way: with the price of a bent review starting around £10k (according to one leading critic), costs would quickly become excessive, No, the reason is that La […]
Anticipation in the foodie world has been at fever pitch. Could this Mayfair newcomer possibly equal the remarkable value which has been all but universally acclaimed at Arbutus, its Soho parent? As we entered the paneled premises formerly known as the Drones Club, the Arbutus team – Anthony Demetre and Will Smith – were both […]
Opening an Indian chain restaurant in London is evidently no piece of cake. This is after all, the city blessed with more quality subcontinental establishments than anywhere else in the world. And, to make it worse for would-be chain tycoons, some of the very best are also some of the cheapest. Think Lahore Kebab, New […]
Over-design is one of the curses of the modern restaurant world, so it was a joy to enter Patrick Molloy’s new solo venture, by Guildhall. It’s almost a parody of plainness. Not perhaps quite to the extent of the epic Victorian stalwart Sweetings – where Molloy was formerly maitre d’ – but more in a […]
For some reason, new-wave Old English food is something you normally only find in pubs. There is of course a famous exception – the founder of the movement, St John of Smithfield. But the vast majority of St John’s imitators and inspirees are pubs, or dining rooms attached to pubs. The logic of this (or […]
It’s important for restaurants to be true to their roots, so first impressions of this new tapas bar near the Old Street roundabout are very comforting. Slightly ramshackle? Low-level bare-bulb lighting? Attractive, slightly offbeat staff? Yes, yes, yes. Spiritually speaking, this place is an absolute knock-off of its Brighton parent. And the mother ship is […]
It wouldn’t be fair to say that Fulham has no good restaurants. But – certainly as you leave the immediate environs of Fulham Broadway- the distant reaches of the Fulham Road have historically been a land of big pubs and chains. Here, indeed, near the junction with the Munster Road, stands the world’s very first […]
It’s never seems like the hottest idea when a new restaurant’s menu looks conceptualised to within an inch of its life. Few restaurateurs have the energy to get every aspect of an opening right, and it just seems to show a warped sense of priorities. This new Spanish outfit near King’s Cross puts its menus […]
If anyone wants to see how London restaurants have evolved over the past two decades, they could do much worse than a brief walking tour of the various branches of the Olivo franchise. The original restaurant near Victoria, offering Sardinian specialities, seemed almost exotic when it opened back in 1991. Its tasty cooking still makes […]
