Already likened to the River Café (but much cheaper), this buzzy and unpretentious Bermondsey outfit offers straightforward Italian cooking of a consistently high standard. The blizzard of PR nonsense which tends to anticipate the arrival of a new London restaurant is too often followed by realisation that it has turned out, in fact, to be […]

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A friendly, independently run sushi bar and Japanese bistro, in a striking setting at the base of a new office building, just north of Broadgate. It’s almost impossible to overstate the change that’s come over the City in the past quarter-century. How did those of us who worked there in those far-off days survive with […]

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Mooli’s W1 Traditionally, you couldn’t get anything worth eating for a fiver in central London. Times, though, they are a-changing. Here are two recent débuts where you can do just that. There aren’t many places in London where we’d positively look forward to a lunch for a fiver, but Moolis is the obvious exception. Bright […]

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Unchanged from the days when it was called De Cecco, this long-running Italian is now even more appropriately named, serving up an above-average ‘local’ formula to the lucky inhabitants of Parson’s Green. The change of name of the establishment long called De Cecco drew us back to this Parson’s Green Italian, which was established over […]

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In fast-evolving – but not necessarily fast-improving – Chiswick, a smart bistro where the cooking strikingly lacks ambition. The ‘chi’ in Chiswick definitely stands for ‘chichi’ nowadays. Gone are the bad old days when Chiswick’s main drag was nothing more than a magnet for chain pizzerias. Now a slew of stylish new openings confirm the […]

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A useful but uninspired chain outlet, handily located for mid-rank business lunching in the heart of the City. Raymond Blanc may technically be French, but he has made himself into something of a national treasure. His Manoir aux Quat’Saisons is a grand and accomplished all-round country destination of many years’ standing. Not something we have […]

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Near Fulham Broadway, a spacious and comfortable bar cum dining room; it’s rather hidden-away, though, and we’re not quite sure its cuisine makes it positively worth seeking out. The Fulham premises once known as The Farm have been through a number of incarnations in recent years. Constant throughout has been a comfortable and spacious contemporary […]

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Gordon Ramsay’s comfortable and welcoming – if rather beige – Belgravia dining room, offering dextrous cuisine of impeccable standards (reminiscent of Murano’s early days); a closer approach to real ‘fireworks’, however, is perhaps to be found at Marcus Wareing’s establishment, three minutes’ walk away. The recent history of Gordon Ramsay, his group and its recent […]

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