Much improved by a general ‘loosening up’, an eminent dining room offers unusually intriguing and tasty dishes in a setting of almost Scandinavian understatement; the set lunch (as so often in Chelsea) is a bargain well worth seeking out. What a great job you have! Well, how hard can it be drifting round restaurants, and […]
On a fashionably-located ‘graveyard’ site, on a first floor in Knighsbridge, the capital’s only Azerbaijani restaurant of any grandeur; our pleasant visit notwithstanding, we have difficulty seeing how the formula will attract a broad local following. Okay, we admit it. It was primarily a sense of morbid curiosity which drew us to this first-floor dining […]
A clubby, tightly-packed Mayfair sibling to Le Caprice and so on, attracting the glitzy clientele you might expect; the cooking, however, isn’t yet up to the standards of its nearest sibling, Scotts, though prices are quite reasonable, considering. A stars and stripes – as well as a union flag – announces the location of this […]
The latest addition to the fashionable Arjun Waney stable, this Mayfair Mediterranean offers upmarket comfort fare of a high standard; the tightly-packed basement is more atmospheric than the somewhat stately ground floor dining room. Arjun Waney may not be a name quite as known to the fashionable crowds as Richard Caring has become in recent […]
Trendy but unintimidating, Russell Norman’s new ‘diner’ looks set – like the similarly US-inpired local classic Joe Allen’s – to become a long-term Theatreland fixture. Is this a classic New York Jewish diner? And if so, why – with pork dishes clearly on the menu – is it so obviously not kosher? And do they […]
Professional, but vast, soulless and expensive, Gordon Ramsay’s grand brasserie, in a shopping mall by St Paul’s, seemed to us to exert an appeal only discernible by those lucky enough to have large expense accounts. So, let’s get the food out of the way. On our visit, the realisation of the menu at this latest […]
From Corbin and King, a swish, Midtown brasserie, which has the hallmarks of an instant in-crowd classic, even if its looks are less stunning than its stablemate, the Wolseley. What’s in a name? Restaurant-maesters, Corbin & King’s new Aldwych opening apparently follows in the footsteps of a turn-of-the century Gallic automobile marque (Delaunay-Belleville). But whereas […]
A prototype for the latest extension of the Jamie Oliver franchise, this Brit-themed bistro is more of a wow than you might expect. The world fall into two camps. The much larger camp is composed of those who rush to restaurants because they’ve seen the chef on TV. The much smaller – and, on the […]
From the S&P people, an upmarket shopping mall-style Thai; its spacious Covent Garden premises offer a pleasant respite from consumerism, even if the food is not consistent enough to make the place a destination in its own right. Situated in a newly created corner of Covent Garden, this shopping mall-style Thai is hidden away opposite […]
