Hidden-away just off Regent Street, Jason Atherton’s second Mayfair restaurant offers a clubby vibe very different from his uncompromising Pollen Street Social, just over the road – for all-round charm, the experience at the newer restaurant is arguably superior. Jason Atherton came to prominence as the chef at Maze – initially at least, perhaps the […]

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An unadorned Shoreditch purveyor of ‘meat & whiskey’ – it sounds a convivial sort of concept, but we found the reality rather up-and-down. So we find ourselves in a chilly Shoreditch, in search of a quick Sunday night dinner. We see this likely-looking place – which bills itself as a Meat & Whiskey Bar & […]

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Run by the eponymous Otto, a straight-down-the-line Gallic restaurant, offering classic cooking of good quality, in an attractive and characterful Bloomsbury setting. The idea that a restaurant is an extension of the personality, even the home, of its proprietor is common in France. Witness the number of restaurants called ‘Chez’ quelqu’un. But you see it […]

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Opposite Green Park, a smart, well-spaced and welcoming Peruvian bar/restaurant offering good standards all-round; for those not too worried about counting the pennies, its clubby charms would make it particularly suitable as a party destination. Arjun Waney – co-founder of such establishments as Zuma and Roka – clearly knows a bit about establishing a restaurant […]

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On the Belgravia/Pimlico fringe, the former Ebury has been relaunched as a good-all-round bar/restaurant, offering food of no particular ambition, but realised with solid consistency. It’s ‘rather picniccy’Âť, said the young Miss Harden. As good a word as you’re going to find to describe the bright and effortfully informal mismatched décor of this large, light […]

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A vehicle for a chef of undoubted talent, this ostentatious Mayfair ‘brasserie’ offers perfectly acceptable food and service but on our early-days visit any sort of excitement was signally lacking. Eric Chavot cooked at Knightsbridge’s Capital Hotel for a decade (ending in 2009). This really tells you everything you need to know about his skills […]

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From an operator with some big-name experience behind him, a low-key fast-food chain-prototype, in Victoria, offering standards which – at least in the early days – are impressive. Not a tweet, still less any reviews can we find: the opening of Scoffs seems to have been met with total media disinterest. Odd, really: until not […]

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Part of a Romanian-based chain, a Mayfair Italian (with a twin in Earl’s Court) offering a generic formula that’s about 20 years out-of-date, and at high prices too; with the food, however, there is nothing actually wrong. We were intrigued. Not one, but two, branches of this Bucharest-based Italian chain – there’s another in Earl’s […]

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A couple of blocks from Charlotte Street, a corner boozer which gives a convincing British spin on the classic brasserie format; our early-days visit found it one of those rare places where there’s nothing really to fault. Those Englishmen who believe that the classic Gallic bistro/brasserie offers the pretty much perfect informal dining experience (guilty, […]

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Presided over by the executive chef of the usually good (but always pricey) Hakkasan group, a business-friendly City-fringe restaurant offering prettified, notionally Cantonese dishes – some of very high quality – in a Western ‘dégustation’ format. We can’t say we went to HKK with the highest hopes. It’s owned by the Hakkasan people, whose most […]

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