Stapleford, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Co-owner Ben Jones together with two friends rescued this property off the A1 25 years ago to create a then-cutting-edge gastropub, and it’s an “old and reliable friend” to long-term fans, with the “atmosphere is of a bubbling country pub that attracts regular clients from a wide area” (and is still one of the top-100 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll). Probably it’s fair to say it’s “not quite as good as it was in its heyday, but it’s still a very good bistro-esque pub” serving “an interesting and varied menu of seasonal delights”. “Have a pint at the bar or in the summer outside in the garden, and then sit down to an excellent, comfortable meal. The well-appointed rooms in a house opposite are ideal for those that like to sleep where they have eaten”.

This “small and friendly restaurant (with rooms)” occupies a small 17th-century building just a stone’s throw from the cute marketplace of this scenic Rutland town, and has been a feature of the area for decades. It serves a “fine seasonal menu” – “original without striving for effect” – and “the service is efficient, professional and pleasant”, adding to the joys of the “lively” atmosphere and “very reasonable” price tag. Those who have been coming for decades (“we held our wedding here in 1994 and visited last night to celebrate our Pearl anniversary!”) report that it’s “excellent still”, and after a visit “a walk around Rutland Water 15 minutes’ drive away is enjoyable”.

“You can gaze at Rutland Water” and “sitting on the terrace before and after your meal is an experience in itself” at Tim & Steffa Hart’s “very traditional country-house hotel” (once owned by the Hoare banking dynasty, and long predating the 1970s reservoir that nowadays surrounds it). A scenic drive and the crunch of gravel as you pull up herald an “old-fashioned gastronomic delight” in the pretty dining room of this luxurious mansion, where service is “always impeccable”. Chef Aaron Patterson has been at the stoves for 34 years now and is the longest holder in the UK of a Michelin star. His classic cuisine “never fails to deliver top- quality food”: “even old favourites like roast beef have an added dimension”. “It is just so reliable and such a relaxing place”, if with a slight formality to the proceedings. It remains one of the top-25 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll outside London and inspired no words of criticism this year.

North of Leicester, in part of the East Midlands not over-burdened with top eateries, John Duffin’s family-owned venue is a particularly high achiever. Now in its tenth year, it’s part of the family farm (Stonehurst Farm) where he grew up and which helps supply the kitchen (and there are also cottages available for overnight stays). Choose in the evening from a five-course or seven-course tasting menu for £100 and £120 per person respectively: “excellent accessible cuisine at a realistic price” that’s “always a delight”.