London Stockwell Restaurant Guide

This “longstanding Clapham local fave” – run by three “Nobu refugee” chefs – “keeps knocking out very good-to-exceptional sushi and sashimi” after almost 25 years (although some of the cooked dishes are less successful). “Service is local, friendly and charming but can seem overrun”, and the “ambience is Nobu-meets-nightclub”.

“A short menu of high quality” continues to win acclaim for this “great little Italian off Clapham High Street”, where the “delicious sharing plates” are inspired by renowned chef-patron Robin Gill’s time working on the Amalfi coast. He first made his name here in Clapham with The Dairy, which opened 12 years ago and closed down in 2020.

2023 Review: “Bright modern tapas with some old favourites” are on the menu at this “stylish” pair south of the river, named after the food market in Barcelona. “Consistently good cooking” and “reasonable prices” are the plus points, although they may “lack the extra zing of the very best places”.

2021 Review: “A nice, laid-back American buzz” has helped win a loyal following over the years for this small chain of Kansas City-style diners: one of the first in London to bring BBQ indoors. “It’s a fun place” (in the right mood) and the food is “decent” and in man-sized portions, but “not particularly special”.

2021 Review: “Bright and airy”, traditional-ish gastroboozer (plus garden), off Clapham High Street, “reliably serving good food” (if not of a particularly ‘gourmet’ variety).

2021 Review: “Classic pizzas, cooked simply and well in a nice, buzzy room” has kept Franco Manca creator, Sami Wasif’s Clapham hang-out, in biz for over 25 years: “it’s always reliable, and you can nearly always get a table”.

2021 Review: “When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

2021 Review: “What a find!” – “superb and authentic Indian street food” developed at a market stall is now found in a permanent home by Wandsworth Town station. “Passionate owner Tania is always there to talk about the menu”.

2023 Review: “Fab” California-style pizzas (bigger and fresher toppings, apparently) are all you can eat at this handy converted public convenience next to Clapham Common tube, apart from the breakfast butties served until 2pm. There’s also red & white wine on tap, and own-label beers by the can.

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

“Only just opened and very popular” – Dom Hamdy (of Bistro Freddie fame) looks to have another winner on his hands with this spring 2024 newcomer, which occupies part of the lobby of a Clapham studio complex: “the space is the entrance, at night disguised by brown curtains”. “Friendly staff” succeed in boosting the mood of what critics say “is not the best interior”; and they “serve small and large plates from a changing menu, which can sell out fast”. (In his April 2024 review, The Evening Standard’s Jimi Famurewa was reluctantly bowled over: “Hamdy and his team have done the unthinkable: brought cool, swagger and weapons-grade restaurant sexiness to an area that even locals are prone to decry as a culinary tundra”).

“We love the pistachio decor and the spacious seating”, say fans of this expanding chain, which had operated as a treasured old deli in Soho for over 75 years before starting to branch out as a pasta-chain in 2018. Impressions of it are something of a mixed bag though. To fans, its stylised outlets are “very convenient” and “can be trusted for a good-value and enjoyable experience with excellent food” (mostly pasta) in “sensible portions”. On the downside, though, are a fair number of diners to whom it’s a good concept whose execution is “perfectly fine but unexciting” (“starters good, pasta average-to-good, but compared with folk who had raved to me about other branches, I was left with a sense of ‘meh?’”). Still, their backers are enthusiastic and this year they added new locations in Greek Street and South Kensington.