Whitchurch, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: After 15 years, the Michelin-starred Pony & Trap gastropub in Chew Magna – owned by chef Josh Eggleton and his sister Holly – is to reopen in a new guise in 2022. The Eggleton siblings have also opened Pony Bistro, in Bedminster (see also) and this, their former HQ, will operate ‘no longer as a gastropub, but as a wedding venue, cookery school and restaurant’.

Thoroughly at home in Bristol’s smartest village, the first branch outside London of Richard Caring’s national chain is “a very good place to go for a relaxed business lunch” or similar occasion on smart, neutral ground – the food doesn’t inspire much in the way of feedback either good or bad.

2023 Review: “Kind of a romantic and fantastic Scandi-Bristolian take on dining!” – “You’d have to go a long way to replicate this really original experience”, where you eat in the “special location of a marvellous Victorian walled garden with lovely views (of the Mendips)”. There’s a “very individual” menu prepared by head chef Mark McCabe with 14 courses for £150 per person: “just superbly executed, if expensive”.

The “gorgeous room” is the highlight of a visit to this popular outpost of the “ever-expanding chain”, whose interior design based on the famous London original in Theatreland trumps the “unremarkable” cuisine. Flexibility is much of the appeal – there’s a “good varied all day menu, plus options for brunch or afternoon tea”.