St Merryn, Italian Restaurant Guide

Paul Ainsworth’s casual spot is a “surprising crowd-pleaser”, turning out “perfect arancini”, “brilliant salty house fries” and “excellent pizza with blistered crust” (“other dishes are available, but I’ve never got past the pizza”). While the odd skeptic who hasn’t visited since its 2020 bistro relaunch rues the disappearance of the “formerly excellent pasta dishes”, the vast majority love the “amazing” small-plates menu and, for dessert, “the brown butter soft-serve ice cream with your own toppings to add is SO Paul Ainsworth – fun!”.