Shenfield Restaurant Guide

This Essex institution, founded almost 70 years ago, is still “the best fish restaurant in the area”, offering “consistently great food with even better service”. It’s relatively “formal”, which befits its status as a venue which attracts generations of the county’s notables, from Rod Stewart, Denise Van Outen and Victoria & David Beckham to the TOWIE crowd.

“‘Fusion’ may be a dirty word but it works a treat” at this “really good multi-course omakase” from Tokyo-born Angelo Sato, who trained under Clare Smyth and was head chef at Restaurant Story. Originally focused on chicken skewers, it has morphed into a more ambitious outfit, serving a set 16-course dinner that is “full or surprises” and “one of the most exciting options in Soho nowadays”.

“Fine fish” from Billingsgate and “good wine” make for an “excellent fish ’n’ chips meal” at this large South Woodford chippy.

“Pub grub done the Galvin way” is to be found in the chef brothers’ home county at their “beautiful pub, restaurant and garden, set in stunning countryside” (if “in the arse end of nowhere”, according to a day tripper from South Woodford). “The cooking here is very good with something of a European vibe (with pub standards to fall back on if you choose to dine in the bar rather than the more formal restaurant setting)”. “The staff always make you feel welcome, and the landlady, Katie, is particularly charming”. Top Tip – “an unusual highlight is Christmas Day lunch, which is well thought-out and nicely cooked (Chateaubriand or halibut if you hate turkey!)”.

This “local French venue in Wanstead” has been a reliable bastion of classic Gallic bistro cooking for 14 years. Its founder, veteran restaurateur Max Renzland, stepped down during the pandemic, since when the odd regular complains that the “the menu has been dumbed down”, but its food ratings remain generally sound.

“Shame it’s now so out-of-the-way, but well worth a visit” – after 26 years on the fringe of the City, Cyrus & Pervin Todiwala relocated their famous Indian venue to this new unit on the Royal Docks in 2022. It’s a “light and airy setting” (not far from London Excel and City Airport) with bright views over the water and docks. “Cyrus continues to evolve his dishes, for all occasions”, and “the Todiwalas are excellent hosts too”: “staff are so passionate and personal to all who come and dine” on the “wonderful Indian food with a Portuguese twist”.

“Reliably excellent pizza” – “better than the other high street chains” – is what you’ll find at this growing Clapton-based operation, now with 12 sites from Balham and Crystal Palace in the south to Tufnell Park (which, as of summer 2024, is the latest to open). They’re perhaps “not smart as places to eat”, but that hardly matters – and the “toppings are interesting without being off-puttingly un-pizza-ish”.

“Who needs Pizza Express” when you’ve got this bottomless Neapolitan pie joint – a “great concept” (since exported to Colchester) where you press the button for service and “pizza slices keep coming round” in a form of culinary roulette; since no two slices are the same, “you get to sample loads of exciting flavour combinations” that “one would not ordinarily put on a whole pie” (“the sweet chilli chicken with honey is a favourite!”).

“Busy at times, but still with a great vibe” – this converted Victorian factory in Dalston (opened in 2013) will be familiar to some as the location for the 2021 hit film ‘Boiling Point’; and wins acclaim for its grills and other modern British dishes. In June 2024, they launched a new two-floor spin-off in South Woodford: this time in a fine-looking Georgian building – a large site with 150 covers and a 50-seat outside terrace. It has a similarly flexible menu, with options for snacks, brunch, and Sunday lunch.

“A mini Shinkansen Japanese bullet train that brings your sushi orders” is a UK first at this bright, first-floor Japanese café in Chingford: a fun cheap ’n’ cheerful experience. “Downstairs is a proper pub (the ‘Rusty Bike’) complete with TVs showing sport and a selection of board games: you can order Thai and sushi on both floors. Yum!” (It goes without saying: this is not first choice for culinary purists).

Energetic outside signage, a no-less-colourful graffitied interior, and a soundtrack of pumping hip hop help set up an impactful experience at this year-old taqueria in the middle of Leytonstone, brought to us all by owner and head chef, ‘Smokey’. There’s no cutlery for the excellent tacos, which come in about 10 different varieties – you are invited to ‘get messy’!