Harrogate, Pan Asian Restaurant Guide

“Quietly top class” – York’s oldest inhabited house (and boasting a medieval walled garden) is the backdrop to a meal at this small hotel, some of whose rooms have unmatched views of York Minster. The dining room (holder of hard-to-win three AA rosettes) serves a multi course tasting menu with an optional wine pairing “a very pleasant experience with some great flavours”.

Occupying a small corner of a “fabulous old-school country pile” – itself set in 20,000 acres of ground – this “smart restaurant in a very smart hotel” makes use of game and fish from the estate, as well as produce from the very large kitchen garden, to provide “good cooking that’s well presented”. Afternoon tea in the splendid adjacent lounges is also a feature worth discovering.