Bowdon, French Restaurant Guide

“An excellent local restaurant with talent in the kitchen (Miarisuz Dobies) and professional front of house” (his wife); regulars are “never disappointed” by the French- and Central European-inflected food (including five- or seven-course tasting menus), with “every detail wonderful and made in-house”.

“Truly fine dining without being stuffy” isn’t an easy act to pull off, but Olivier Troalen’s “traditional Gallic” venture (he first worked in England at the French Embassy in London) in the Cheshire suburbs does it with aplomb; by all accounts it “never fails to satisfy”, its “healthy northern portions” pairing with “meticulous presentation and high-quality ingredients” (“you can invite anyone, assured they won’t be disappointed”).

“Terrific French cooking” by Cheshire-born chef-patron Joseph Rawlins combines with immaculate presentation from his FOH partner, Parisienne Gaëlle Radigon, in a smart, “contemporary setting” (“love having a tablecloth: so many restaurants don’t”) at this converted farmhouse in a village famous for its timber-framed church and ancient ‘Marston oak’ (Britain’s largest tree). Top Tip – “the set meal is exceptional value”.

2023 Review: Rachel Winter Jones and Marc Molé opened this new French spot in a fascinating historic building owned by the local council – built as a Victorian jewellers and clockmakers – in April 2022 (too late to inspire any feedback in our annual diners’ poll). Marc, an architect from Paris, and Rachel, a lawyer with a 20-year career at the World Bank, met on a blind date in a bistro in Paris and here that’s exactly the style of cuisine they are emulating. Open from the morning onwards for coffee and pastries.