Bermondsey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: With a “taster menu that’s second to none”, Robin and Sarah Gill’s crack kitchen team have settled in well to their new home in a Bermondsey ‘aparthotel’. They moved over from Clapham’s The Dairy, which did not survive the pandemic, but a taste of the latter’s “imaginative, skillful small-plate cooking” using carefully sourced seasonal ingredients is still available here.

Firmly established after more than a decade, highly rated chef Steve Williams’s no-frills canteen is attached to a biodynamic wine warehouse in a railway arch behind London Bridge station. It’s “always busy, but the trek is worth it for the food” – seasonal ingredients transformed in a basic-looking open kitchen and served “with a smile and a laugh”.

“Still a very good gastropub”, this green-tiled ex-boozer was a leading light in Bermondsey’s emergence as a foodie destination when it opened 21 years ago, and remains in the gastronomic high ground with its commitment to ethically sourced ingredients.