Evening Standard
For his final Evening Standard review, Jimi visited what he called “the latest twinkling node in José Pizarro’s ever-growing Iberian empire” – an all-day restaurant next door to his flagship tapas bar José in Bermondsey Street.
It is, he said, “low-slung womb of dusky pink walls, abundant wood, backlit, decorative conservatory tins and glossy coral tiles framing an open kitchen” – “a soft-lit daydream of playful, punchy drinking snacks and burstingly fresh, high-glamour sharing dishes”.
A positive review then, but if Lolo had a fault, Jimi reckoned the sheer size and variety of its meant meals here could be “prone to a kind of discordant formlessness”. Perhaps the best approach would be simply to order “some languorous drinks, augmented by the great snacks”.
Jimi Famurewa - 2024-09-15
