Evening Standard
Ben Lippett returned to a long-established railway arch restaurant (originally a warehouse for Gergovie Wines) well known for its “clean, seasonal cooking and an exceptional wine list, one that favours small producers and natural bottles”.
He opened his account with raw trout accompanied by “nose-tickling” horseradish cream and peppery radishes, followed by a “spectacular” pork terrine – “perfectly seasoned, tender, wrapped in a hearty blanket of pork belly, a mosaic of shoulder meat, snow white fat and crunchy green peppercorns; a sweet and sour pickled prune sits on top, a glazed orb of pleasure”.
A “sensational chicken schnitzel” served with matchsticked kohlrabi with tangy mustard dressing and creamed broad beans marked the savoury crescendo of his meal. This was “smart cooking. No rules broken, no boundaries stretched, just very good seasoning, clever menu writing and immaculate execution.”
Ben Lippett - 2026-06-28
Drinks
Extras
