Belgravia, French Restaurant Guide

“With the pâtisserie, the Japanese and Parisian influences are combined in such a wonderful way… and the coffee is sooo good”, according to fans of this mezzanine and foyer café, within a beautiful Belgravia landmark. But, perhaps predictably considering the frou-frou nature of this luxe locale, it can also seem plain “overpriced”.

“Interesting vintages, well introduced by the sommelier” helped win renewed praise this year for this slick, luxurious Belgravian (built around a central wine cage), which was also sometimes nominated for its “romantic” potential. However – as it approaches its 14th year – although its modern French cuisine was often favourably rated this year, there’s little of the excitement in feedback that once distinguished it as one of the flagships of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant portfolio.

“Always a good place to meet people” – this Wolseley Group operation on a corner of Sloane Square feels like “a slice of Paris in London” and its supremely “convenient location” means it “can get very busy”. Somehow standards have never quite gelled here as well as at the group’s better-known sites: the “predictable, ersatz French brasserie fare” is merely “fine”; the service can be “quite patchy”; and the “buzzy atmosphere” can tip into bland anonymity. Harsh criticisms were absent this year, though, and seemingly there’s “been no perceptible drop in quality since C&K’s departure”.